Topic: Master Cylinder Finish

[1968Cally]

My 1968 GT/CS with stock power front discs has the incorrect Bendix booster based on a 2/8/1968 San Jose build date.  I have found a good Midland core which I will send to Booster Dewey for the rebuild.  I will also put on a new repro Master Cylinder.
Questions:
1) Was the factory MC and Cap painted a satin black like the booster?

2) Was there a red label for brake fluid specs on the cap or was the lettering stamped into the cap.

3) If the MC was painted black, was it painted attached to the booster making the MC attaching nuts and aluminum spacer coated with black as well?

4) Any recommendations for a correct repro MC?

5) Does Booster Dewey just shoot a new coat of paint on the booster or does he properly prepare it?  Or should I do that before sending it off to him?

6) Anything else I should know about?

Thanks.
Dave

[J_Speegle]

My 1968 GT/CS with stock power front discs has the incorrect Bendix booster based on a 2/8/1968 San Jose build date.  I have found a good Midland core which I will send to Booster Dewey for the rebuild.  I will also put on a new repro Master Cylinder.
Questions:
1) Was the factory MC and Cap painted a satin black like the booster?

All painted as a unit and delivered from the sub contractor to the car assembly plants as a complete unit

2) Was there a red label for brake fluid specs on the cap or was the lettering stamped into the cap.

Yes and Yes Imprinted in cap and fluid specification sticker. Check out the article in the 68 section of the Library. Marcus provided a very complete article on master cylinder lids and its posted there.

3) If the MC was painted black, was it painted attached to the booster making the MC attaching nuts and aluminum spacer coated with black as well?

Painted all as a unit fully assembled

4) Any recommendations for a correct repro MC?

Don't know of any being made

6) Anything else I should know about?

In each of the brake ports a small plug was inserted to keep the threads clean of anything to aid in brake line attachment. Because of this there is a visual paint shadow (no paint) around each port as has been discussed in other threads about the subject

Some additional threads that cover many of your questions. Used the words "68 master cylinder" in the search feature of the site

http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=5527.msg30986#msg30986

http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=13381.msg82286#msg82286

http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=19967.msg126676#msg126676


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[carlite65]

5. we do not know his procedures. suggest you call him directly and ask.

[1968Cally]

Great info guys.  Thanks.  I did find Marcus' link about the MC caps.  I clicked into it and got a "possible harmful website" page put up by Microsoft Edge.  I will try it in Firefox.

[1968Cally]

Marcus' link worked in Firefox for me.

[1968Cally]

Guys,

I just found this Website for Dead on Nuts.  They have a Master Cylinder that looks to be fairly correct and they tell you what is not correct.  Question is, is it worth $147?  Looks like NPD has one "repro" (unpainted) - no cap sticker.    $10 dollar sticker and a can of paint might be just as good?

Please check this Dead on Nuts one here  https://www.deadnutson.com/1967-68-mustang-shelby-master-cylinder-with-cap/

Does anyone know about this company?  How does this one look to you?

Thanks again.

Dave

[carlite65]

DNO's work is top notch. never heard of any problems with their work.

[J_Speegle]

You have to make those choices

Don't know what you have to start with. You might have an original even with an original style cap that could be rebuilt.

Sometimes you get lucky other times the closer you want to be to 100% correct the more it cost especially if you can't wait. Sort of like racing.

Every difference, if your showing or taking pride in your restoration, is a detail that makes your car different from how it was originally built. Nice thing is that you get to choose - just don't pretend it's 100% if you choose to cut a corner or two     Others will notice

Jack/DeadNutsOn makes some very nice parts ready to bolt right on if that is how you choose to do things.

[1968Cally]

I have had a '66 coupe that I did as concours trailered that won multiple golds at national/grand national shows about 16-18 years ago.  Bought a '68 GT/CS already done as concours trailered and got multiple silvers on.

My current GTCS was done to a concours trailered level of quality but there are non- stock items on the engine and the booster/MC.  It has a Shelby intake and an Edelbrock, Cobra valve covers and chrome air cleaner.  100 amp tuff stuff alternator, Sanden compressor and HiPo exhaust manifolds.  I have the stock carb, compressor and alternator so I could easily get it back to stock.  But, I have no desire to enter it in any MCA events.  Nothing wrong whatsoever with MCA events and I had fun with them but it is kind of been there, done that.  I do drive the car around on some nice days and do some local car shows and cruise nights.

The MC is not stock, just some off the shelf replacement.  There is a slight, slight leak at the rear of it so that is why I am delving into the project.  And, I figured if I am going to do it and have to remove the booster to get the MC off, I might as well do it right.  Just collecting parts now and it will be a winter project.

I think I will go with the Dead on MC

[Bob Gaines]

I have had a '66 coupe that I did as concours trailered that won multiple golds at national/grand national shows about 16-18 years ago.  Bought a '68 GT/CS already done as concours trailered and got multiple silvers on.

My current GTCS was done to a concours trailered level of quality but there are non- stock items on the engine and the booster/MC.  It has a Shelby intake and an Edelbrock, Cobra valve covers and chrome air cleaner.  100 amp tuff stuff alternator, Sanden compressor and HiPo exhaust manifolds.  I have the stock carb, compressor and alternator so I could easily get it back to stock.  But, I have no desire to enter it in any MCA events.  Nothing wrong whatsoever with MCA events and I had fun with them but it is kind of been there, done that.  I do drive the car around on some nice days and do some local car shows and cruise nights.

The MC is not stock, just some off the shelf replacement.  There is a slight, slight leak at the rear of it so that is why I am delving into the project.  And, I figured if I am going to do it and have to remove the booster to get the MC off, I might as well do it right.  Just collecting parts now and it will be a winter project.

I think I will go with the Dead on MC

FYI you do not need to take the power booster off to change the MC.

[67350#1242]

The boosters I have had dewy rebuild were bead blasted inside and out and black paint applied.  I have had to paint them over because the gloss was too shiny in my opinion.  If you don't like the paint you can probably just scuff and paint over as it looks like he preps them well.  I would call and talk to them - maybe they have no paint options or just prime, etc.
Kurt.

[1968Cally]

FYI you do not need to take the power booster off to change the MC.

Interesting.  Front of my MC is about 1/16 of an inch off the shock tower.  It is just some replacement one.  I wonder if the stock ones are a little bit shorter.   

[1968Cally]

Interesting.  Front of my MC is about 1/16 of an inch off the shock tower.  It is just some replacement one.  I wonder if the stock ones are a little bit shorter.

Thanks.  When I get the core I bought,  I will call them and ask the questions.  It's all good as long as they prep them well.