Topic: No ignition spark

[preaction]

I ran into this issue today with a new to me car and motor that was running yesterday and only needed the distributor pulled and reset a tooth or two. The motor was running before changing the distributor location after the move I had no spark. I checked the coil for power and it has 12v with the points open and 5.85v with the points closed, car has a fresh battery key on power at the coil and crank and no spark from the primary system that is high tension lead removed from the cap and held to a cylinder head. To be safe I didn't know the condition of the points and condenser so I replaced both and still no spark. I may have been looking at this too long does anyone see what I'm missing  thanks Paul.

[67350#1242]

I would guess bad coil secondary.  The 12v and 5.85v at the Bat terminal indicate the points are working and that current is flowing through the coil primary winding.   Might try a different coil to dist cap wire to check that too.  Kurt.

[rodster]

Found on the interweb...

Here are the coil specs from the 1968 Ford Shop Manual (other years should be very similar):

Primary reistance: 1.40 - 1.54 ohms (75F)
Secondary resistance: 7600 - 8800 ohms (75F)
Current draw (engine off): 4.5 amps
Current draw (engine idling): 2.5 amps

[Bob Gaines]

I ran into this issue today with a new to me car and motor that was running yesterday and only needed the distributor pulled and reset a tooth or two. The motor was running before changing the distributor location after the move I had no spark. I checked the coil for power and it has 12v with the points open and 5.85v with the points closed, car has a fresh battery key on power at the coil and crank and no spark from the primary system that is high tension lead removed from the cap and held to a cylinder head. To be safe I didn't know the condition of the points and condenser so I replaced both and still no spark. I may have been looking at this too long does anyone see what I'm missing  thanks Paul.

Odd that the symptoms manifested themselves only after the change of the distributor reposition. I would eliminate possible reasons associated with that change first. I would switch out coil to eliminate that for sure to be on the safe side. Ford yellow top coils very seldom go bad.

[preaction]

Bob, you are right and its been my experience that I never ran into a yellow top coil that went bad until today its frustrating at times but following the basics and double checking got the engine fired back up.