Topic: 67-68 Quarter & Vent Window Chrome Issues ~Re-plate or Replace?

[67gtasanjose]

I would find better cores. They can get the pits out (depending on chromer) but at what cost?

I went though this on my Shelby. The glass is almost impossible to separate from the stainless steel channel it is in. It's ever harder to get it back in. I went to many glass shops here in the DFW area. Not one would/could do it. They don't want to do anything that isn't glue in as far as windshields and back glass. All chrome plating requires copper. If they tell you it's an extra step, stay away from them. The window frames are pot metal. If there is anything other than very minor pitting, I'd be cautious about investing the monies in re-plating as the blemishes will likely show.
Al's Plating in Ft. Worth Texas has done all my work. They are relatively reasonable considering the EPA strangulation on the industry that has caused much of the industry to go south of the border.  Just be prepared for the struggle of re-assembly.
                                                                                                         -Keith

I think I paid about 125.00 a frame at Al's plating.
                                                                      -Keith

They can polish the hell out of them post chrome stripping. However, what I have found through experience is when there is a lot of heavy polishing for deep pitting the edges of the items are rarely left crisp/sharp as factory. Coupe cores should be a dime a dozen.  These guys can literally repair just about anything. You might give them a call and see if they'll quote you. Or send them. The worse you'll wind up out is ground shipping and you know where you stand.
http://gravesplating.com/
                                                                                                     -Keith

OK. I have read all this wisdom of experience here up to this point in time. I get it that the pitting IS AN ISSUE and it is suggested I buy better cores (by Bob) and yes, I see several sets that are this "dime-a-dozen" on the quarter windows but every one of those I find look worse BY FAR than what I have!

I will re-state this in a different choice of words about the condition of the ones I already have: The pitting is ONLY on the the inside surfaces of the visible areas, almost ZERO pitting on outside surfaces. Outside surfaces look remarkably nice.

Since the area of "trouble" is virtually FLAT, I fail to see or understand how these surfaces couldn't have these flat areas machine-sanded off or filled EASILY. No, I do not understand fully what is involved with the plating process of pot metal but I am surprised it is assessed that I should REPLACE these ones. If that is the consensus, I need ones that essentially could be polished up and look nice before I even begin?

I uploaded several shots of my issues. You may notice the OUTSIDES have typical Driven-Damage, scratches etc while the last 2 images show the pitting that is foind INSIDE ONLY, up to where the weatherstips sealed the rodent urine acid INSIDE the car. The face edge of the front vent windows also has little if not NO pitting. I cannot over-emphasize that the damage is ONLY on the flat, inside surfaces

[67gtasanjose]

Added a few photos to previous reply, hoping to use these two better represent what I am looking at while considering the replating options. Last two pictures are the insides of the rear quarter windows. The vent windos also have similar pitting ONLY on the flat areas, none of the outsides or face edges seen with door open.

[Bob Gaines]

Added a few photos to previous reply, hoping to use these two better represent what I am looking at while considering the replating options. Last two pictures are the insides of the rear quarter windows. The vent windos also have similar pitting ONLY on the flat areas, none of the outsides or face edges seen with door open.

As I said before it can all be fixed but at what cost . The best in is going to give you the best out typically. If you can't find better cores then go with what you got. The plating company should be able to provide you with a quote based on the condition. Just be sure you stipulate you want pit free chrome. That is when the discussion may or may not get negative.

[1967 eight barrel]

The pits don't get a filler. They actually weld up the damage. If you had a Rolls Royce you could justify the cost. You may be talking a 1000.00 to fill in hundreds of pits. It's not a "bondo" repair.  My suggestion is simply to call them and ship the bare parts. Graves is well in the restoration circles for big dollar cars. I saw the Chrome work they did for a 1932 Cadillac Phaeton. 22,000 worth. Stunning work. I had almost forgotten about them until I was looking through some pictures.

                                                                                                 -Keith

[67gtasanjose]

I hear all the voices of experience, I certainly understand that even though I don't like the truth, the truth is still the truth.
I also have done a bit more research overnight and have seen a few video clips showing the repair process and subsequent plating process, how the platters either grind away the pits and/or fill them (after chemically stripping the chrome). I see also how if they don't "get it right the first time" after any grinding/filling (soldering) any damage, they have to go back to square-1 and re-strip all of the work, leaving even less than they began with so certain jobs can be WAY beyond practical.
My best-guess at this point in time is that like rust is on sheet metal, there is more UNDER the chrome you cannot see (tip of the iceberg kind of thing).
I also have now talked with a local plater and I will take the quarter window chrome sections in for an estimate at least. They are only about 25 miles away.
I'll report back once I hear their advice/suggestions.

[OldMustangGuy]

I guess maybe I'm a contrarian or just lucky to have a good plater available. I re-plated the windows on my 68 GT350 and didn't find it at all difficult to remove or replace the glass in the frame. As far as chroming the pivot, my guys left the pivot in place and used some kind of masking over the stainless...I'm pretty happy with it...there was a tiny bit of bleed through on one of the windows but its virtually unnoticeable after polishing. Did I pay more than buying repros?...yep, but I wanted the originals.

[OldMustangGuy]

If I remember correctly the mask material that they used was some kind of wax....perhaps its a new process...apparently it's not common or I guess more would be reporting it

[Bob Gaines]

If I remember correctly the mask material that they used was some kind of wax....perhaps its a new process...apparently it's not common or I guess more would be reporting it

When I have seen it done before the plater used a rubber type tape. The bad thing is when the plater doesn't get the tape or whatever used to mask close enough to the edge of the pivot and you have a little chrome on the stainless.

[jwc66k]

It might help to understand some of the steps in the chrome plating process. Here are some highlights. A "normal" part to be plated will go into at least 30 different baths, from degreasing to pure water to an acid based with an electric current passing thru the acid. "Normal" chrome car parts are copper plated, then nickel plated, then chrome plated. There are drying and buffing stages in between. Multiple copper stages may be involved to fill holes (pits) in the item. It is complicated. Masking is often used to not plate some portion of an entire item, like a stainless window frame. As Bob stated, it's a tape, special tape. Based on some items I've had chromed, there will be at least six "masking" steps in the process. It can get expensive.
Jim