Topic: 68 convertible Trunk weather stripping tips

[ruppstang]

Anyone restoring a 68 HCS, GTCS or Shelby convertible needs this information.
 Most of the trunk weather stripping sold to day will not work on our cars.
 I first used a Scott Drake seal and could not even get close to closing the lid. I then tried a Daniel Carpenter (made in China) and it was better but still could not get the lid to latch. Last I found a Daniel Carpenter (made in the USA) and it worked perfectly.
 Below is a picture of the two Carpenter seals, the one on the RH is the China made and the LH is the USA made. As you can see the China one is larger and made of a very dense closed cell rubber. The USA made one is the correct shape and is a very soft open cell rubber. You can see the holes in it.

 Another tip to have a good fitting deck lid is when the car is in bare metal glue on a trunk seal and test fit. If you need to adjust any of the trunk gutters before paint is the time and the cost of a trunk seal is cheep.

 I hope this will help other not have learn the way I did.
 Marty

[J_Speegle]

Thanks Marty for taking the time and sharing

[Bob Gaines]

Anyone restoring a 68 HCS, GTCS or Shelby convertible needs this information.
 Most of the trunk weather stripping sold to day will not work on our cars.
 I first used a Scott Drake seal and could not even get close to closing the lid. I then tried a Daniel Carpenter (made in China) and it was better but still could not get the lid to latch. Last I found a Daniel Carpenter (made in the USA) and it worked perfectly.
 Below is a picture of the two Carpenter seals, the one on the RH is the China made and the LH is the USA made. As you can see the China one is larger and made of a very dense closed cell rubber. The USA made one is the correct shape and is a very soft open cell rubber. You can see the holes in it.

 Another tip to have a good fitting deck lid is when the car is in bare metal glue on a trunk seal and test fit. If you need to adjust any of the trunk gutters before paint is the time and the cost of a trunk seal is cheep.

 I hope this will help other not have learn the way I did.
 Marty

To help clarify - you will most likely ruin the weatherstrip when you take it off after adjusting and before paint but the cost of a trunk seal is cheap.

[droptopboss]

Do you have the part number? Would this be the same for a 69/70 Shelby decklid?

[J_Speegle]

Do you have the part number? Would this be the same for a 69/70 Shelby decklid?

The repo convertible Shelby trunk weatherstrip is listed for all 68-70's  Have not compared the profiles against originals

[droptopboss]

S9MS-7643720-A

From Scott Drake via Daniel Carpenter purchased at Summit Racing $30.65 shipped

[droptopboss]

Any tips on installation?

[CharlesTurner]

Recommend using neoprene contact adhesive with a small brush.  There's a guy that sells amber color on ebay in small quantities, Herco brand, search 'neoprene contact adhesive'.

I usually divide the contact area into 1/6ths.  Brush adhesive on the lid, then brush sections of the weather-strip and stick it.

One other tip on the repro stuff is to rough up the contact surface of the rubber with some 80 grit sandpaper to give it more bite.  Also make sure any release agent is removed with a solvent.

[Bob Gaines]

Recommend using neoprene contact adhesive with a small brush.  There's a guy that sells amber color on ebay in small quantities, Herco brand, search 'neoprene contact adhesive'.

I usually divide the contact area into 1/6ths.  Brush adhesive on the lid, then brush sections of the weather-strip and stick it.

One other tip on the repro stuff is to rough up the contact surface of the rubber with some 80 grit sandpaper to give it more bite.  Also make sure any release agent is removed with a solvent.

+1 . Excellent advice. I had forgotten the advantage of roughing up the surface of the weatherstrip for added grip.

[droptopboss]

Anybody have a picture? 69/70

[TLea]

Regarding the 68's this isn't just a repo part issue it was like that on assembly line. We have seen several cars that the edge of the rear trunk corner (body not lid) was hammered down in an attempt to make it fit better. These were original unmolested cars.
There is a fairly easy fix and it's not about seal mfg although the softer one is better. When gluing at the corners keep seal about 1/4" away from the shoulder on the radiuses  This keeps fat part of seal away from tight part of fit. Works perfectly