Topic: 67 deluxe dash bezel

[bhoulis]

The instrument cluster bezel on my 67 Shelby has a Ford part number molded on it, and molded in slots but does not have any steel tabs sticking through the slots. Looks like the aluminum is only held on with adhesive. It also has stickers for the wiper and brakes. Would this be typical of a service replacement piece from the late 70's, early 80's? When, approximately did these start being "reproduced"? Do the current repops have the slots for the steel backing plates or are they smooth and just rely on adhesive to hole the aluminum in place? It was on the car in 1981 when I bought it. Thanks for any info .Brian

[Bob Gaines]

The instrument cluster bezel on my 67 Shelby has a Ford part number molded on it, and molded in slots but does not have any steel tabs sticking through the slots. Looks like the aluminum is only held on with adhesive. It also has stickers for the wiper and brakes. Would this be typical of a service replacement piece from the late 70's, early 80's? When, approximately did these start being "reproduced"? Do the current repops have the slots for the steel backing plates or are they smooth and just rely on adhesive to hole the aluminum in place? It was on the car in 1981 when I bought it. Thanks for any info .Brian

I had always thought in the 80's for this later lower quality service part. It has been a while since I bought a repro one to compare. Maybe others have insight. The good news is that I have seen good repros out there that look relatively close to assemblyline compared the service parts sold in the 70's and 80's. There are also repro dash aluminum inserts that have the tabs like original that you can buy to fit on your re plastic chrome restored original dash bezels and other dash trim.

[bhoulis]

Thanks Bob. Thinking of taking off the aluminum and having it rechromed along with the other pieces, then going with a set of Burton backing plates and aluminum inserts. Just wanted to make sure I am working with a Ford piece. Brian

[Bob Gaines]

Thanks Bob. Thinking of taking off the aluminum and having it rechromed along with the other pieces, then going with a set of Burton backing plates and aluminum inserts. Just wanted to make sure I am working with a Ford piece. Brian

It sounds like you are doing what I would do. Original re plastic metalized bezel and trim using the Burton backing backing plates and aluminum inserts.

[ruppstang]

It sounds like you are doing what I would do. Original re plastic metalized bezel and trim using the Burton backing backing plates and aluminum inserts.

+ 1 Marty

[Bossbill]

I was going to restore my stainless dash pieces but after seeing Burton's pieces, that sounds like a better way.

My current speed/tach cluster dash is one of those 80s repops with the cheesy glue-on stainless and has to go. I have another tab style dash that I could use to get re-chromed and it's in fairly decent shape, although the screw tab on the far right is missing.
Here are the prices of re-chroming from gcartrim.com,  but his turn around is 4-5 months.

Cluster - 198.00
Center - 40.00
Rt Upper - 93.00
Rt Lower 44.00

Any other recommendations on other places?

Any recommendations on replacement lenses?

[ruppstang]

I have use these guys a couple of times and was pleased with their work and turn around.
The prices below are for stripping, plating and detailing your parts.

Mustang
 
1967-68
 
Gauge Bezel  Camera Case Finish
 
$235.00
 

Mustang
 
1967-68
 
Lens Dials LG each
 
$14.00
 

Mustang
 
1967-68
 
Lens Dials SM each
 
$9.00
 

Mustang
 
1967-68
 
Dash Panel Lower R.H. Camera Case Finish
 
$55.00
 

Mustang
 
1967-68
 
Dash Panel Center Camera Case Finish
 
$48.00
 

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        $ 384.00

 

 

If you decide to proceed please ship the parts to the address below. Package the parts well to avoid breakage. We recommend wrapping each part in bubble wrap and using a carton large enough to provide cushion between the parts and carton wall

 

Include your information along with a list of the parts.

 

Allow 5 to 6 weeks for delivery.

 

We will call for your credit card information when the parts are ready to return.

 

If you need additional information please contact me at this email address:

 

[fchester@vacuumorna-metal.com]fchester@vacuumorna-metal.com or call (800) 827-6762

 

Visit our website www.vacuumorna-metal.com and click on RESTORATIONS for more information and examples of our work.

 

 

[Bossbill]

Thanks for the reference.

Does anyone know if the Scott Drake lenses look like the originals?

[Azdriver]

So of the currently available aluminum inserts, which is the better choice. I was leaning towards the Burton parts but they do not have the screened printing on them???

Thanks, Pat

[Bob Gaines]

So of the currently available aluminum inserts, which is the better choice. I was leaning towards the Burton parts but they do not have the screened printing on them???

Thanks, Pat

All the Burton deluxe inserts I have seen had the screen printing unless they changed for the worse.

[1967 eight barrel]

I also used vacuum ornamental. They are plated different and the finish is much more durable. I also used the Burton Brushed Alumninum inserts. They are screen printed. However, the right side over the glove box requires fitting. I can elaborate if you need to know what has to be done via PM. if you aren't VERY careful the inserts will scratch the plated plastic panels.

[Bossbill]

So it sounds like the best remedy is to get the Burton inserts before the dash is plated in order to verify/fix any fit issues.

But, since is the right thread for this topic, some decades ago I did experiment with refinishing some spare "stainless" (aluminum). I tried to keep a very steady hand in order to sand down the existing inserts, with varying amount of success.
I think a better tact is use a sliding mechanism (think along the lines of a dual beam tile cutter) and create perfectly parallel sanding marks in the aluminum.
I'm not sure what the final sandpaper grade should be to get the right finish.
I'm also unsure as to what the correct sheen is for the clear.
As for the "WIPER" and "BRAKE" text, I can either create a vinyl stencil and paint or silkscreen them on.

Who has done the sand/clear successfully?  Every time my back starts bothering me stuff like this seems like the perfect project until I can moving on the big stuff again. Like today.

[Bob Gaines]

So it sounds like the best remedy is to get the Burton inserts before the dash is plated in order to verify/fix any fit issues.

But, since is the right thread for this topic, some decades ago I did experiment with refinishing some spare "stainless" (aluminum). I tried to keep a very steady hand in order to sand down the existing inserts, with varying amount of success.
I think a better tact is use a sliding mechanism (think along the lines of a dual beam tile cutter) and create perfectly parallel sanding marks in the aluminum.
I'm not sure what the final sandpaper grade should be to get the right finish.
I'm also unsure as to what the correct sheen is for the clear.
As for the "WIPER" and "BRAKE" text, I can either create a vinyl stencil and paint or silkscreen them on.

Who has done the sand/clear successfully?  Every time my back starts bothering me stuff like this seems like the perfect project until I can moving on the big stuff again. Like today.

  There is more chance of a fitment issue on the over glovebox piece if you are using a repro chrome panel. A original that has been re chromed has less issues. On the refinishing of the brushed aluminum panels I would like to say in as nice of a way possible that this subject that has been visited and re visited up teen times before over the decades . The short answer is that you will not be satisfied with the results of your refinishing efforts . That is if expect results comparable to original new. The new repro panels are going to get you closer.  Move on to a better use of your time is my advice.   

[Bossbill]

It seemed so simple -- sand and clear coat (with some level of matte).
At least I have all of the original dash pieces which can be re-plated.

I guess I'll work on floor drips and sealer instead now that I have supplies and guns!