Topic: Seam Sealers and Sound Deadeners - What worked for me

[Bossbill]

There is also a slight cost saving in that the gun can lay out a seam that closely replicates the seam sealer used on the front aprons. Smooth and somewhat runny, without any overspray at all. One product does it all (I think).
You can also lay it on and then brush it out, like at the rocker seam, seat belt reinforcement and other underbody areas.
It does look like you almost need one tube each to glop it on at the rear bumper reinforcements!

I have a query into Lord to ask if their product allows multiple coats and what the dry time would be between coats. It is a urethane product.

[J_Speegle]

While I commend all the efforts, I still wonder why when we think nothing of multi-thousand dollar paint jobs we still think Lord Fusor is expensive?
I can find the gun for around $165. While the tubes are $15 each or so, even with 10 of them the cost is around $300 including gun. That's chicken feed in the whole process.

What am I missing? Why the disdain for this process?

As always or often does it comes down to choice and what you find that works best for you in your situation. The bottom line is the finished product - not always how you got there when its all said and done. Saving dollars can be a negative if the final product doesn't look the part but when it does some/many will wee the benefit of the savings.  I've used the product and worked with a number of shops that did/do also. Not disdain jut prefer one over the other for a number of reasons. 

[Bossbill]

I did exchange emails with Transtar, who make the product in the above video.
They say their product is as moisture proof as any epoxy sealer and can go straight over metal.
If the car is bare metal you can use their sealers right over the metal and then apply the DP74LF (or whatever epoxy primer you prefer).
This saves a bunch of effort in that you aren't priming, sealing and then priming again to get the correct color over the sealer so as to emulate factory processes.
Doesn't help me as the car is already DP74LFed.

And the product can be re-coated if done within their re-coat time (within 48 hrs).
I've seen many laments that re-coats are not possible with other products.

I'm not married to the product, but it solves a number of issues.
I'll buy the gun and try it out the Transtar product and post some results here.

Meanwhile, I'm building a spreadsheet of how to paint the car in the correct order.
With help from other threads here I'm getting a great idea of order and processes.
Silly?
I have over 40 line items (and growing!) of areas to prime, sealer, re-prime, special paints, etc and it was getting hard to keep track of all of this without screwing up. I have columns devoted to prime, seal, prime again, bare steel areas, interior and so on. Paint work extends over days and days (weeks?) and having a checklist keeps the screw-ups at a minimum.
[on edit: clear up a clumsy sentence]

[J_Speegle]

Meanwhile, I'm building a spreadsheet of how to paint the car in the correct order.
With help from other threads here I'm getting a great idea of order and processes.
Silly?

Be aware that there are maybe a dozen of others working on similar products plus I'l be publishing at least the 67 San Jose undercarriage article (like the 69-70 Dearborn ones on the site currently). I broke the process into areas since few tackle the whole job as a single task plus they becomes  too large with supporting illustration plus overlap from one section of the car to another can create other challenges.  Nice release is planned to be 66 San Jose but many of these have taken 20 years to get this far.