Topic: Ground points for 68

[67gtasanjose]

Rich,
The NS switch does interrupt the ability to start the vehicle. I assumed it cut the power from the solenoid as well. I've never had a Ford with an automatic transmission with the exception of a '66 Tbird.  However, a ground isn't the likely culprit for intermittent operation.

                                                                                                          -Keith

Yes, on an Auto trans Mustang, it does interrupt the ability to start but it ONLY interrupts the "start" signal (from the key switch) to the fender-mounted solenoid. (an exception to this is the Tilt-Away column cars which have yet ANOTHER interrupter switch to the START signal, mounted on the column) On a MANUAL trans Mustang, there is a jumper wire (at the same underhood connection as an auto trans Mustang and is used to by-pass the switched "Park" or Neutral" signal, allowing it to start no matter what the gear selection.
On NEITHER manual or Automatic Mustang is there a 12V or 6V (resistor) circuit source going out to the ignition coil anywhere near the Neutral switch. On AUTO cars, the 4-wires that go into the neutral safety switch are two wires that are switched open/closed for "START" when in Neutral or Park and the other two wire are switched open/closed to supply the 12V to the backup lights. That is all. Nothing "magic" going on in that switch. This holds true for virtually EVERY classic Mustang without a starter delay. (Starter delay cars have a form of "magic" going on)

[68 S Code]

And the weird part is a year ago I drove it 70 miles from my friends shop to home and it didn't exhibit any issue until I got on the side streets around the house after 65 miles of highway speed. Last week I drove it 2 days 50 miles each without a problem. But Weds and Fri it went back to its ignition missing and stall after 5 min and 40 minutes. I've had multiple drives of 25 miles in the neighborhood the last couple of weeks without a stall. I noticed the back-up lights weren't working Weds night. Electrical gremlins gotta love em.

[68 S Code]

There is never an issue trying to start it when cold. The only time it is difficult to start is after its been driven and it stalls. Basically just driving along.....starts to lightly miss....and then shuts off and cruises to a stop. Once it shuts off it will crank and maybe even start and run but only for a few seconds. Not a fuel issue as you can look down the throat of the primaries and see fuel flowing down when giving it fuel with the linkage. Sometimes a mist appears but i assume fuel just vaporizing as it hits the hot intake manifold. I've chased the potential of engine heat and the carb for a few months. Aftermarket gauge shows nice normal engine temps. Carb idles at 625-650 rpm and 575 rpm in gear. Timing set at 6* BTDC. Mechanical advance at 26 degrees at 2000 rpm.No vacuum advance at this point. Engine Vacuum is about 15. Its the ignition misfiring that kills it. Just not sure why it starts. Seems electrical in nature.

Tighned up the electrical connection at all plugs. Started. Turn signals and radio worked for a few minutes but then they shut off. May try a drive later but not optimistic that she wont stall as its 80 degrees today. She prefers 60. KISS it? I want to kICK it. Not really.