Topic: 69 Rim Blow switch

[Brian Conway]

The OE assembly line rim blow switch on my 9/19/68 Metuchen, Mach 1 failed a few years back.  I have had some difficulty in finding a correct/working replacement.  In the last couple of years I have tried two of the Carpenter switch's and they both had electrical problems.  My latest, Kapalini switch, failed because the switch was 1" longer than my original.  At one inch to long the electrical contacts over lay each other after installation.  Less serious is the length of the horn contact leads.  Again 1" longer than the originals.  I only have the two switch's, the assembly line, 43 & 3/4" and the Kapalini switch 44 & 3/4",  here to measure.  I didn't think to take any measurements off the Carpenter switch's  Darn.   So if some other maker, there are several, and measurements are available that would be of some help.  If possible some comparison's of the switch measurements might help ?  At least to confirm that the OE measurement are good.  Pictures are of the OE switch,43 & 3/4" lower, and the Kapalini switch 44 & 3/4' Upper.  Thoughts ?  Thanks, Brian

[Dirk Pitt]

Looks like you should be able to shorten the switch to desired length and solder the wire to the shortened lead.  Not perfect but it would work and save you the time of hunting for another one.

The OE assembly line rim blow switch on my 9/19/68 Metuchen, Mach 1 failed a few years back.  I have had some difficulty in finding a correct/working replacement.  In the last couple of years I have tried two of the Carpenter switch's and they both had electrical problems.  My latest, Kapalini switch, failed because the switch was 1" longer than my original.  At one inch to longer the electrical contacts over lay each other after installation.  Less serious is the length of the horn contact leads.  Again 1" longer than the originals.  I only have the two switch's, the assembly line, 43 & 3/4" and the Kapalini switch 44 & 3/4",  here to measure.  I didn't think to take any measurements off the Carpenter switch's  Darn.   So if some other maker, there are several, and measurements are available that would be of some help.  If possible some comparison's of the switch measurements might help ?  At least to confirm that the OE measurement are good.  Pictures are of the OE switch,43 & 3/4" lower, and the Kapalini switch 44 & 3/4' Upper.  Thoughts ?  Thanks, Brian

[Brian Conway]

Thank you Dirk; absolutely right.  I could modify this part and make it work.  Right now I am just asking for some measurements.  Thanks,  Brian

[Brian Conway]

FWIW; Did some nosing around and came up with an assortment of length's for the 69 Rim Blow Switch.
     My OE 1969 Rim Blow horn Switch measurement   43 & 3/4"
     NOS                               C9AZ-13A875-C               43 & 3/4"        7Lscjracer      Forum Member
     NOS                               C9AZ-13A875-C               43 & 7/8"        Vcode            Forum Member
     Carpenter Repro switch  C9AZ-13A875-C               44 "                 WCCC Web Site
     Scott Drake                    C9AZ-13A875-C               44 "                 Possible a re-branded Carpenter switch ?
     Semo                                                                      44"                   Possible a re-branded Carpenter switch ?
     NOS                               C9AZ-13A875-C               44 & 1/8"         Vcode           Forum Member
     Ford Ram Air                                                           44 & 5/16 "      Leon
     Rim Blow Buddy                                                      44 & 1/2 "        Dave
     Kapaline                                                                   44 & 3/4
     

West Coast Cougar has the Carpenter switch listed and provides the 44" measurement on the website catalog.  The only vendor to do so and I was very impressed by that.  Virginia Mustang also sells the Carpenter switch and did provide the 44 " measurement over the phone.   Rim Blow Buddy makes there own switch, 44 & 1/2 ", and also was able to provide that measurement over the phone. 

I think it unlikely that the copper core of my oe switch would be subject to shrinkage but it cannot be ruled out.  It seems the Carpenter switch at 44" is the most accurate of the reproduction switch's.  My experience with that switch, I tried two, is that it is made of a harder, less flexable rubber, and subject to failure even before installation.  The Kapalini switch at 44 & 3/4" is simply to long and will not fit into the wheel without over lapping.  So while I am not thrilled with the reliability of the Carpenter switch it seems to be the most accurate reproduction at the moment. 

If some of you have other information or experience's I would sure like to hear of them.  Thanks,  Brian

[7Lscjracer]

Some helpful sleuthing there!
WCCC has the best website around, every original part right down to hardware items is cataloged.
That's what you pay for, all those pictures and descriptions/applications.
I prefer everything be cataloged from a reference standpoint even if it's not available or may never be available.
I have a 69 NOS strip in it's tube, so I'll try and get the measurements and part number.
It's tough to get at, so stand by.
I have the early 69 wheel when the switches were glued in and a nightmare to remove.
Got about half way thru then set it aside when I encountered the most heavily glued area.
Have to think about some different tools to pick and scoop.
Not a scratch on it yet, even on the hidden areas, and I want to keep it that way.

[Brian Conway]

A picture of my rim blow wheel with the original switch in place.  Lower right rubber jacket, 3/8", was cut off by me just to see what it looked like.  Originally looked the same as the left side.  Notice there is a plastic bump/separator between the two ends of the switch.  This separator, in my opinion, does limit the workable length of the switch.  Brian

[Vcode]

Brian,

I have a couple of NOS switches I can measure if you want.
Let me know.

Dale.

[Brian Conway]

Dale the more info the better and from an NOS switch that much better.  If that means cutting the original packaging I would say no don't bother.   What I am thinking; the FORD service NOS switch may have been used as the template/model or Ford Tooling model that some of the after market switch's are fashioned after ?   Brian

[jwc66k]

Twenty - twenty five years ago, I helped a friend replace the rim blow "switch" on his 69 Sportsroof. It was an original Ford part, and it took many attempts to get it in. That was an original Ford part, I can imagine the problems an aftermarket reproduction would entail. It lasted maybe six months. He then took the car to a local Mustang shop where they had the same luck - bad. A second switch also didn't work. The third finally went in, worked for a while, then quit. All were Ford items. It's a never-ending battle. Good luck.
Jim

[7Lscjracer]

Here's my switch from edge to edge of the rubber jacket 43.5"
May look a hair shorter in pic because I wasn't pressing down a couple of slight wobbles
https://postimg.org/gallery/24qr6mdaw/

[Brian Conway]

Really great thanks,  Looks to me, measuring from soldered joint to soldered joint, 43 & 3/4" ?  Brian

Pictures of 7Lscjracer's C9AZ-13A875-C switch

[7Lscjracer]

Really great thanks,  Looks to me, measuring from soldered joint to soldered joint, 43 & 3/4" ?  Brian

I would say so too

[Vcode]

Brian,
Here are the dimensions for the switches I have.







Dale.

[Brian Conway]

Thanks Dale.  Looks like one is 44 & 1/8" and the other is 43 & 7/8" ?  Brian

[Vcode]

Thanks Dale.  Looks like one is 44 & 1/8" and the other is 43 & 7/8" ?  Brian

Yes one switch length is a little longer than the other one due to the copper strip is longer on one switch.
It was tough to keep both switches laying flat for the picture.
It is like 3/16" difference between the two.

Dale.