Topic: Alternative to Eastwood "Zinc phosphate" rattle cans

[mac1971]

Desperate times... call for unusual approaches....

Apparently, Eastwood is out of the stuff and  it is on back order, none available through my distributor here in Ontario either...

I need two or three cans so that I can get the car out of the restoration shop, which costs me money the longer it sits there...

Would anyone have some they could sell and ship to me? Figured it is worth a shot... Thanks in advance for your consideration.

[Bob Gaines]

Desperate times... call for unusual approaches....

Apparently, Eastwood is out of the stuff and  it is on back order, none available through my distributor here in Ontario either...

I need two or three cans so that I can get the car out of the restoration shop, which costs me money the longer it sits there...

Would anyone have some they could sell and ship to me? Figured it is worth a shot... Thanks in advance for your consideration.

FYI the only thing that the Eastwood product resembles is maybe the dark heat treat spring steel on the leaf springs . The product is way too dark to resemble the factory finish on hood hinges and other typically light to medium gray factory zinc phosphate plated parts . Nothing out of a rattle can is going to look very convincing  to someone who knows what to expect. Years ago before I figured out a better way (short explanation) I would start out with cast blast color and dust it with a flat or semi flat paint to get the desired medium gray pepper look of zinc phosphate. I only resorted to the eastwood zinc phos paint for use on leaf springs . I stopped using the eastwood or any paint all together on the leafs because in short order the leafs would flash rust at the points where the leafs rub each other and rust would weep out over other areas.

[J_Speegle]

Thanks Bob, have to give this some further thought...

The product from Palmetto enterprises seems to be something that would give the correct look, maybe close to concourse? Is this something that would be recommended by this group for the hinges, shock tower caps and hood latch on a '71?

Oh you'll find more parts to plate as you go through the restoration - promise   Palmetto kits and products will allow you will give you the original look without the paint worries. Just read the P & O how to's on the site and everyones tips. Or find a platter that will do these for you

[Bob Gaines]

Thanks Bob, have to give this some further thought...

The product from Palmetto enterprises seems to be something that would give the correct look, maybe close to concourse? Is this something that would be recommended by this group for the hinges, shock tower caps and hood latch on a '71?

As I mentioned in my post I stopped using paint quite a few years ago and do most of the zinc phosphate plating myself as it is realitivly easy and gives original results. Leaf spring are the only things i send out because of size.

[1967 eight barrel]

Here is a possibility. You can get this at Home Depot, Lowes and/or an Electrical supply. They make a cold galvanize product that comes in a spray. If the metal is prepped, it looks pretty close. Under the circumstances, it may be worth a shot.
                                                                                                            -Keith
https://jet.com/product/detail/ef19da2410fc463e8c6f05eb955accf9?jcmp=pla:ggl:gen_health_beauty_a3:health_care_first_aid_hot_cold_therapies_a3_other:na:na:na:na:na:2&code=PLA15&k_clickid=fbe6fbbb-9f90-454a-9b49-3c4e685d32f9&abkId=405-1440329&gclid=CILW5uOf0MsCFQMQaQodwNgBrw

[Bob Gaines]

Here is a possibility. You can get this at Home Depot, Lowes and/or an Electrical supply. They make a cold galvanize product that comes in a spray. If the metal is prepped, it looks pretty close. Under the circumstances, it may be worth a shot.
                                                                                                            -Keith
https://jet.com/product/detail/ef19da2410fc463e8c6f05eb955accf9?jcmp=pla:ggl:gen_health_beauty_a3:health_care_first_aid_hot_cold_therapies_a3_other:na:na:na:na:na:2&code=PLA15&k_clickid=fbe6fbbb-9f90-454a-9b49-3c4e685d32f9&abkId=405-1440329&gclid=CILW5uOf0MsCFQMQaQodwNgBrw

Keith, the subject has to do with zinc phosphate look . That finish is typically in the light to dark gray scale. The cold galvanize products on the other hand are of a shiny silver appearance which has no resemblance to zinc phosphate.

[1967 eight barrel]

That CRC compound is not paint, and it is gray. No shine, not bright silver.

[1967 eight barrel]

It was the desperate issue is why I suggested. Real zinc too.
It does offer some protection.

[1967 eight barrel]

I was concerned about how many things are done, and how to try and replicate the finish. Ford calls out finishes on the fasteners, that eliminates that issue. However, as Bob and Jeff have mentioned numerous times: If it looks right, they don't care how it gets there. I, for one try and find a finish on parts that replicates the factory, but yields a more durable finish being my vehicle will be driven.  Many tried and true processes are passed along, and as one of us stumbles upon something better, it becomes the norm.
The best we can do now if we want that assembly line new look is to try and replicate from the few survivors that are left. There in is what we use to gauge.

[WT8095]

This issue of phosphate and oil is a perfect example. We know it was done in some form back in the day, but there is a myriad of ways to reproduce the look today and some agree and some don't. I've seen enough pictures on what these parts should look like and will try to replicate as best as I can, how I accomplish this is through the aforementioned evaluation of what has been done previously and what is available today.

To emphasize your point, Ford allowed some variation in finishes. Their specifications (the excerpt below is from 1991) had requirements for performance and general appearance, but allowed for some freedom in manufacturing. S2 (phosphate and oil)  for example, does not even have a hard requirement as to whether zinc or manganese was used - vendors could optionally use either. Zinc plating was allowed to be either electroplate or machanically plated (not all cases). So in theory fasteners from each vendor could have a different appearance. That's where we have to rely on photos and observations to determine what was actually used.

However, even when the exact original finish is known, there may be reasons to use something else for a restoration. Cadmium, for example, is highly toxic and you aren't going to find someone to cad plate your fasteners, period. So you'll have to use something else. In your case, since you will be driving your car you may use alternate or improved finishes to better protect the car. I'm doing that with mine.

[priceless]

Mac, you never mentioned if the car is going to be driven. If its a driven Mustang you better be careful to choose in the way it won't rust in a week. And from experiences I've seen, zinc phosphating on a driven Mustang will rust in no time. If driven, I'd use a paint that matches as close as what looks good to you from your  experiences.
I have paint on mine that I duplicated as close to what I, myself, thought was close enough and it has withstood the test of time. No rust. And also passed with no points deducted in concours driven.
Hope this helps.

[Richard P.]

I've also had very good success with the Zinc Phosphate paint from East Wood