Topic: Painting patterns and standards for April 67 Dearborn convertible GTA

[dlevy]

Got it.

Is there a current product that is recommended to use for this application?

Thanks to all for your help.

Dave

[jwc66k]

'chalked' is jeff's term for caulking.

To Jeff, English is a second language - thankfully, the first is cars.
There's an alternate spelling: calking. In the Navy we called it "monkey sh*t".
Jim

[gtamustang]

Since the pans I have are obviously not correct, is this essentially a matter making the 2 front inner most holes 3" diameter or are there other differences.

Dave,
It sounds as easy as you describe; however, the sheet metal is thick there and I am not sure how you would align a cutter to make a perfect circle. Maybe a hydraulic knockout tool (Greenlee) would work...

Regards,
Pete Morgan

[ruppstang]

Were the pan and floors changed in this car?

[dlevy]

Hi Pete,

It will be a challenge to get perfect circles while on the car, but I figure if they do not come out right the pans will have to be removed anyway to get them right.

Does anyone know the offset of the hole margins from the front and inside edges of the pan? Also is the hole exactly 3" diameter?

The pans were changed.

Thanks,
Dave

[J_Speegle]

Is there a current product that is recommended to use for this application?

Sorry for the spelling error

I typically use a DAP elastomeric smooth (no texture in the product) black caulking

I use a caulking gun to apply it (like original) then spread it out and shape it with a 1' chip brush will almost all the bristles cut off (leaving about a 1/4") Dipped in water or a reducer 

[ruppstang]

Another problem with the replacement convertible floor pans is that there is no passageway cut through the under structure for the E brake cables. It a real pain to cut latter so that may be something else to check.
Marty

[dlevy]

That's good to know too!

You guys are a wealth of information. Appreciate all the input.

Would like to hear other's thoughts on an idea for painting.

Considering there are a couple different color primers used on the car and the fact that some remain exposed in different areas of the car when done, I was considering painting the entire car with a current automotive epoxy primer.

Following that, I would color match the original primers that were on the car (e.g. red oxide and dark green) and spray the respective areas with base coat color matched paint. If the basecoat is not clear coated it would be dull like primer yet have the protective properties of topcoat paint. I would also be able to get an exact match of what was on my car to begin with.

Anyone ever do it that way?

Dave

[J_Speegle]

...........Would like to hear other's thoughts on an idea for painting.

Considering there are a couple different color primers used on the car and the fact that some remain exposed in different areas of the car when done, I was considering painting the entire car with a current automotive epoxy primer.

Following that, I would color match the original primers that were on the car (e.g. red oxide and dark green) and spray the respective areas with base coat color matched paint. If the basecoat is not clear coated it would be dull like primer yet have the protective properties of topcoat paint. I would also be able to get an exact match of what was on my car to begin with.

Since these primers were either mostly paint based or epoxy primer they didn't have a flat finish like open  primers. So shooting just the base coat (flat) IMHO will not reproduce the original look

[dlevy]

Understood.

Thank you,
Dave