Topic: '68 Convertible Top - Parchment

[Oz390]

Looking at EZ-On, they list a Ford White, and I know they provide a brass zipper (Kee and Robbins do plastic, unless you special order)

Opinions on the color?  Is EZ-On "close" or is Kee or Robbins, ARO, or another vendor a closer match to original? (or do they all source base material from the same source?)

Have compared black '68 Kee, Robbins and EZ-On side by side and while differnt in some respects no significant differences I noticed, slight variations in manufacturing/stitching.  Don't have a OEM to compare to.  My choice would be EZ-on as the best compromise, for a number of reasons, the brass zipper being one...  ARO is another vendor in the mix, but have not seen their tops first hand.

[CharlesTurner]

I have heard before that EZ-on is a lighter weight vinyl (not as thick).  They are kind of the "economy" version of tops.

[Building 3]

I can tell you about my experience since I had to make the same decision for my 1966 convertible. My experience was based on looking at tops at shows  and talking to those owners, and calling the convertible top manufacturers and talking to them on the phone.  To a large extent, the quality of the phone call information was based on the expertise of the person answering the phone. Another person may have given different answers. So here are some observations:
1. The original Ford tops had different material for the trimming material at the sides and the rear window.  Also the front wind/water seal at the windshield header was of this same different material. I did not find any replacement tops that differentiated the material, rather, the top, the trim and the front wind/water seal were all of the same material. Reproduction tops seem to have a larger cross section for this front seal. Sometimes the difference is only 1/16" of an inch but many times it is more.
2. The brass zipper is correct. Several top manufacturers were reluctant to admit this or provide the brass. No one provides the leather strap that is attached to the end of the zipper to make pulling it easier.  You can make this out of black leather shoe lace material used for heavy duty work boots or baseball glove lacing.
3. For 1966, my car has the hole and the snap in the last bow, so my top needed the "strap and snap" sewn into the top.  Not everyone was willing to provide that.
4. Rear plastic window: I think they all must come with the modern DOT logo, especially if you live in an area with vehicle inspections. But you can ask. Of course this imprint is incorrect for a 1966 MY car. 
5. Tacking Strip: NPD sells a "concours correct" 2-piece rear tacking strip along with the stainless steel screws and the stainless steel arrows. You should check the 1968 Ford assembly manual for the length of this tacking strip. For 1966 this length is 56"  I have measured the length on original cars, tip to tip and they have a range of 56-3/4" to 57-1/4." My observation is that most replacement tacking strips on new tops are too short by several inches on each side.
6. The top installer can make all the difference in the world. A more expensive top can look poor if the installer is not careful and patient.
7. Kee, ARO, Robbins, Electron, and EZ-On and perhaps others make tops for the Mustang. I went with ARO. I am quite happy with the result.

[Oz390]

Thanks for the replies.  I have compared Kee, Robbins and EZ-On, I don't recall any noticeable difference in the material, but will double check my reference tops. 

Knew about the brass zipper, thus leaning to EZ-On, weird the economy top (they are cheaper, but a good top) come with the correct brass that the bog boys (Kee, Robbins, charge more for...) did not know about the trim material, the lack of an OEM to compare to ... not many originals I am aware of here in Australia I have access to.

And I install my own, not a really hard job, just fiddly and time consuming to do right.  A pro can do it faster, but as mentioned below I've a few mediocre installs someone paid a lot of $ for. Especially here in Oz as rates are high, easily $1000 for a base install , and most don't do the rear top pads as "they aren't required" (translation, "I don't want to take the time to add them because its hard and I'll have to add $500 to the quote!").   I've fond doing my own you do some across issue that sometimes need repair/rework and I'd bet most pros just "install the top" and don't take the time to really check out the frame and adjust repair as many often need.

Can anyone comment on the visual difference of the color of the material each manufacturer uses and if one or any are closer to the original parchment white for a 68?  And if well liners and boots match (forgot to add that part of the question last last night when posting the original question)?