Topic: 1964.5 firewall engine wiring clip location? Picture of the clips on the brace?

[CharlesTurner]

Assembly looks like it's coming along well.  One item I noticed is the coil spring cover bolts.  Dearborn cars usually have these installed the other way, nuts showing in engine bay.

[Lemondrop]

They were reversed when I took it apart. It might be incorrect but as a mechanic for a living, I fear bolts jutting out into an engine compartment

If I ever do judged classes, I'll reverse them back.

[J_Speegle]

They were reversed when I took it apart. It might be incorrect but as a mechanic for a living, I fear bolts jutting out into an engine compartment

Just remember/consider that if another owner sees the detail they are likely going to copy rather than ask

Also if you swap - see if you can try and cover the indents produced by the washer and nuts so it doesn't look like they have been moved-replace. They will leave marks and lift or chip paint during the process 

[Lemondrop]

If I do swap them back, I'll do some touch up as needed. I put the bolts in after it was painted so they won't have any paint come off them and the damage to the inner fender should be minimal.

[Lemondrop]

The throttle pedal/linkage that bolts to the firewall, was it painted black or natural steel colored?

[carlite65]

phosphate & oil finish on those items.

[Lemondrop]

Well, would it be better to paint it with a semi-gloss black or cast iron look? I can't reproduce the P&O coating at home at this time.

[J_Speegle]

Well, would it be better to paint it with a semi-gloss black or cast iron look? I can't reproduce the P&O coating at home at this time.

Neither of those colors will look anything like phosphate though there might be a specific brand of cast blast that looks darker and flatter (closer) to phosphate but you'll need to buy a half dozen rattle cans to figure that one out at least.

It will just chip and rust if painted since the arm will move thousands of times. If you had to then Eastwood makes a phosphate colored spray paint so that then a semi-gloss clear over it.

Could try using the gun bluing repair fluid and don't burnish or steel wool it just oil it.

[Lemondrop]

I painted the fuel pedal and installed it. I used semi-gloss but as luck would have it the air was very humid and this dupli-color paint seems to always cloud when it is muggy out. The finish looks like a very dark P&O coating, so it is not terrible. I did research on doing the phosphate and oil coating procedure and I'm going to try and do some myself in the next week or so. If I can master it, I'll remove the linkage and re-blast it for a dipping.

I was thinking someone with the knowledge and or a good rule book should make master lists for every year Mustang that includes all of the phosphate and oil (parkerized) parts, that each car has. Would be a nice reference for the novice like myself.

[J_Speegle]

Good luck with the P & O plenty of help already posted in threads to help

I was thinking someone with the knowledge and or a good rule book should make master lists for every year Mustang that includes all of the phosphate and oil (parkerized) parts, that each car has. Would be a nice reference for the novice like myself.

You would have to break it down by plant also since different plants would have the same parts finished differently but sounds like a fun fairly easy project compared to some others.

But again if we make it too easy - then everyone will be restoring these cars