Topic: Fuse Box Contacts ~Preventing Rust From Returning

[67gtasanjose]

Lately, I've been working on various wiring issues and I know one of the #1 problems with "electrical issues" has and always will likely be connection issues. Since I will be using mostly original harnesses, more notably, the underdash & underhood wiring, I have been giving it all a thorough once-over, checking & cleaning all connectors (including continuity testing) Hoping to have ZERO problems when it comes time to turn the key on with these old circuits  and hopefully nothing "shocking" either!

The fuse panel had some minor corrosion on the fuse contacts and I have cleaned it all off by completely removing the plastic box and one-at-a-time, scrubbing each terminal clean. I feel they will work very nicely like this. I've had a number of issues with corrosion on these early style fuse boxes, EVEN IN DRY CLIMATE So. Calif.. (when I lived there)

Besides dielectric compound, does anyone have good ideas that will prevent rust from returning to the fuse contacts? I have thought about "tinning" them with rosin-core solder but wondered if there are other "good ways" to keep them looking original and keep them working (without future issues).

[WT8095]

I would recommend an electrical contact cleaner, such as CRC 2-26:

http://www.crcindustries.com/ei/product_detail.aspx?id=02005

The equivalent is available from numerous other manufacturers. It's essentially a cleaner with a light lubricant designed for use on electrical components, such as relay, motors, etc. It works really slick on getting the 67-68 in-dash clocks running again without opening the crimped housing - spray some inside, slosh it around, pour out the excess, repeat until the winding contacts are clean. Also works great on old pinball machines 

Contact lube may require periodic reapplication. A dielectric grease will last longer, but is messier and may be more noticeable. But if used sparingly you should have good results.

[midlife]

I don't do concours restorations of fuse boxes, but I will tell you what I've found out the best that works relatively quickly and easily. 
(1) if there is just patina on the contacts, I use CRC's QD Electronic Cleaner just to flush out anything that is loose.  I double-check continuity once the fuses are installed.
(2) If corrosion is light to moderate, glass beading works well.  Unfortunately, it removes the surface finish applied to the contacts, so bare metal is exposed.  Using wooden q-tips, I dab dielectric grease on all exposed surfaces.  Continuity is checked after fuses are installed.
(3) If corrosion is severe, I usually find another fuse box and go from there. 

Removing the clips themselves from the fuse boxes is fairly straightforward, but on 69 on up, the three clip versions are a real pain to get out. 

What I haven't tried is to dip the entire fuse box in Evapo-Rust.  I'm not sure it'll work, as some of the contacts are steel and others are beryllium copper.

If corrosion is very light, soaking it in soda with phosphoric acid seems to clean the contacts reasonably well.