Author Topic: 1966 MUSTANG ROUND BRAKE CYLINDER CAP IS STUCK  (Read 6378 times)

Offline drummingrocks

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Re: 1966 MUSTANG ROUND BRAKE CYLINDER CAP IS STUCK
« Reply #15 on: August 10, 2014, 07:46:32 PM »
I assume an original cap is hard to come by.  If I destroy it, does anyone know what an original replacement costs?

I have an NOS one I'd be willing to sell.
Too much junk, too little time.

Offline 69cobrajetrugae2

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Re: 1966 MUSTANG ROUND BRAKE CYLINDER CAP IS STUCK
« Reply #16 on: August 10, 2014, 08:32:47 PM »
Thanks again for your help, all of you.

The brakes work good, stops hard and straight, and I did not want to disturb anything in the brake system. The wheel cylinders are slightly moist, not quite dry, but not leaking at this time.  If I replace the master,, which is a good suggestion, then the brakes would have to be bled.  The air bubbles, as they are worked through the system, could cause the seals to distort causing a leak.

I might leave well enough alone until I am prepared to go through the entire system. "If it aint broke don't fix it" does have a basis in fact.

 By the way, what do you need to get for an OEM cap?

Offline drummingrocks

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Re: 1966 MUSTANG ROUND BRAKE CYLINDER CAP IS STUCK
« Reply #17 on: August 11, 2014, 02:39:02 PM »
By the way, what do you need to get for an OEM cap?

I sent you a PM.  Just so I'm clear, this is for a drum brake car, not a disc brake car, right? The NOS caps I have are for drum brake master cylinders.
Too much junk, too little time.

Online jwc66k

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Re: 1966 MUSTANG ROUND BRAKE CYLINDER CAP IS STUCK
« Reply #18 on: August 11, 2014, 03:05:26 PM »
For reference, drum brake master cylinders use a screw-on cap, disc types use clips similar to the ones on distributors for the cap.
Jim
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Offline Murf

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Re: 1966 MUSTANG ROUND BRAKE CYLINDER CAP IS STUCK
« Reply #19 on: August 11, 2014, 05:58:28 PM »
I am sure you will be able to remove the cap is you remove the master cylinder.  When you reinstall it - rebuilt and fresh or leave it alone is your decision - if you lightly coat the inside threaded area of the cap and the edge of the rubber gasket as well as the threaded top area of the master cylinder with brake assembly lube it will always be easy to remove. This lube is available at most auto supply stores and is not too expensive and works will for the cap and for rebuilding brake components.  It works with DOT 3,4, and 5 spec fluids in case you switch to silicone (DOT 5) if you are wondering.  You will thank yourself each time you remove that screw on cap, and an occasional wipe after removal with fresh assembly you will have many years of trouble free service as far as removing the cap.  Just a tip that has worked for me for many years.
John Murphy

1965 "K" GT fastback Honey Gold exterior, Ivy Green and White Pony interior, many options
1966 Conv., high option, removeable hardtop, thermactor "C" engine, AC, Springtime Yellow exterior, Black Pony interior
1968 California Special, "J" code, ,many options, white with red interior