Topic: NEEDED: A paint chip chart for RED OXIDE's commonly used.

[67gtasanjose]

This doesn't sound too difficult for a paint or resto shop to have around, but we home-resto buffs have little to guide us in these things.

Today's need is November 2nd 1966 color light red-orange oxide.

Soon, will need the 3rd member red oxide. I am sure it is different.

It would really simplify things to just bring the "page" to the car instead of the car to the "page" at the paint store.

Richard

[J_Speegle]

Think the challenge is that if I scan or take a picture, up load the picture or email it to you, then you print it the color will not be the same. Would expect that this sample will not print out exactly like what I'm looking at in person

Here is a 7R1229xx sample




That is one of the reasons I've tried to take physical samples (cut a section from the floor of a specific car) from cars and only use digital pictures when I can't. Also sprayed some sections of cardboard out with the 69 Floor batch colors to send out as samples - problem with this practice IMHO is that I shared that exact chip or the formula with everyone there would be a bunch of 69 Dearborn cars that all had the exact same color underneath - basically cookie- cutters of one another in that area




This scanned example is the lighter one from the group on the lower right in the picture above




As for your two specific needs yes they are very different in look and finish. For your floor color - since you seem to know what color is why did you not match it (just asking) before you stripped it?   And I take it that you do not have a spare 3 rd member to match to

[67gtasanjose]

My floorpan is NOT stripped. I have been scrubbing it clean with solvent and scouring pads to the original color. I am also uncovering the blackout areas too, it has been kinda an archaeological dig of sorts. I wish to take color samples as you are showing, to line up next to the floorpan and closely match,  then take that sample to have the color scanned so it could be mixed  to match it, test it and tint it as needed.
It sounds easy, but I do not have anything to take to the paint store unless I take the whole body, rotisserie and all! Is there any other way to do this? I wish to get close as possible to the same color and sheen and begin by spraying in only repaired areas if I can blend it to make it resemble the rest of the floor that already looks pretty good.
As far as the 3rd, thats a different project, and I can take that in to match it, but it would be a bit easier to still bring a chip to the third instead of the third to the paint store

[J_Speegle]

....It sounds easy, but I do not have anything to take to the paint store unless I take the whole body, rotisserie and all! Is there any other way to do this?.........

Never tried this for a job done at home but at least two of the local paint stores have sent a guy out with the scanner/computer to the shop to scan colors as they need them. Not needed very often but can think of one special order paint car and a couple of others they came out with the machine for.

Might want to call around and see

Guess once you get this project done you'll have two "chips" or samples to share with others

[Murf]

Our 68 California Special had a dark brown primer used on the floor pan area .  Probably a mix of exterior paint and red primer, and I wanted to repair it in a couple of areas while leaving intact all possible original color.  A local paint supplier came to my house and "shot" the original color.  In fact he came three times.  Here is what I learned:  In order to get the correct color your paint must have a "shine" to it or the gun will not read the color well.  Mine did have a certain sheen if not shine so that part was Ok.  The guy told me that his gun did not tell them how to mix paint, it only searched for an existing color in the Dittzler family.  We wet the existing paint to increase the shine to an acceptable level, got the "shot", then mixed the color indicated.  It was way, way to shiny but by adding a little flattening agent it was toned down to where it was not that bad.  Not perfect but close.  Our car had an extraordinary amount of body color applied at the SJ factory including much of the underside and much of the front fender aprons exterior and even some on the front of the core support near the corners.  The floor was pretty much Wimbledon White with the exception of the tunnel and a small patch in front of the gas tank which was somewhat hidden by the cross floor muffler when the car was complete.  The area in front of the tank was where the "new" color was applied, the rest being left in its original state so all things considered it is virtually impossible to tell that the primer color is a little different there.  Not an easy task to match dull colored paint but I think that between the gun and the help of an experienced painter you may get pretty close.  The hardener changes the color a bit or so I found - maybe because it changes the sheen to a shine.  Be prepared to spend some time on this and hope for but do not expect a perfect color and shine and texture match. 

[67gtasanjose]

Our 68 California Special had a dark brown primer used on the floor pan area .  Probably a mix of exterior paint and red primer, and I wanted to repair it in a couple of areas while leaving intact all possible original color.  A local paint supplier came to my house and "shot" the original color.  In fact he came three times.  Here is what I learned:  In order to get the correct color your paint must have a "shine" to it or the gun will not read the color well.  Mine did have a certain sheen if not shine so that part was Ok.  The guy told me that his gun did not tell them how to mix paint, it only searched for an existing color in the Dittzler family.  We wet the existing paint to increase the shine to an acceptable level, got the "shot", then mixed the color indicated.  It was way, way to shiny but by adding a little flattening agent it was toned down to where it was not that bad.  Not perfect but close.  Our car had an extraordinary amount of body color applied at the SJ factory including much of the underside and much of the front fender aprons exterior and even some on the front of the core support near the corners.  The floor was pretty much Wimbledon White with the exception of the tunnel and a small patch in front of the gas tank which was somewhat hidden by the cross floor muffler when the car was complete.  The area in front of the tank was where the "new" color was applied, the rest being left in its original state so all things considered it is virtually impossible to tell that the primer color is a little different there.  Not an easy task to match dull colored paint but I think that between the gun and the help of an experienced painter you may get pretty close.  The hardener changes the color a bit or so I found - maybe because it changes the sheen to a shine.  Be prepared to spend some time on this and hope for but do not expect a perfect color and shine and texture match.

This is what I half expected, when I go to match this. Probably why I mentioned needing a paint chip chart to narrow down the playing field a bit.

Like the panel cuts Jeff has, if a person was to have a formula for each of the examples, find the closest match and take it in with the formula, mix up a pint and bring it back to try. (going with a slightly lighter color tone first) Then tint it darker as needed.

I know there are countless possibilities due to the factory methods of painting these, but having say "The most common 10 used" would be a good start. At least if the repair didn't quite make it, going over the rest wouldn't be that much more work and it would be close as possible to original.

Richard

[ruppstang]

Our 68 California Special had a dark brown primer used on the floor pan area .  Probably a mix of exterior paint and red primer, and I wanted to repair it in a couple of areas while leaving intact all possible original color.  A local paint supplier came to my house and "shot" the original color.  In fact he came three times.  Here is what I learned:  In order to get the correct color your paint must have a "shine" to it or the gun will not read the color well.  Mine did have a certain sheen if not shine so that part was Ok.  The guy told me that his gun did not tell them how to mix paint, it only searched for an existing color in the Dittzler family.  We wet the existing paint to increase the shine to an acceptable level, got the "shot", then mixed the color indicated.  It was way, way to shiny but by adding a little flattening agent it was toned down to where it was not that bad.  Not perfect but close.  Our car had an extraordinary amount of body color applied at the SJ factory including much of the underside and much of the front fender aprons exterior and even some on the front of the core support near the corners.  The floor was pretty much Wimbledon White with the exception of the tunnel and a small patch in front of the gas tank which was somewhat hidden by the cross floor muffler when the car was complete.  The area in front of the tank was where the "new" color was applied, the rest being left in its original state so all things considered it is virtually impossible to tell that the primer color is a little different there.  Not an easy task to match dull colored paint but I think that between the gun and the help of an experienced painter you may get pretty close.  The hardener changes the color a bit or so I found - maybe because it changes the sheen to a shine.  Be prepared to spend some time on this and hope for but do not expect a perfect color and shine and texture match.

Our 68 HCS we got a good match on color but it was too glossy and too late to change it by the time I saw it.

[67gtasanjose]

Think the challenge is that if I scan or take a picture, up load the picture or email it to you, then you print it the color will not be the same. Would expect that this sample will not print out exactly like what I'm looking at in person

Here is a 7R1229xx sample




That is one of the reasons I've tried to take physical samples (cut a section from the floor of a specific car) from cars and only use digital pictures when I can't. Also sprayed some sections of cardboard out with the 69 Floor batch colors to send out as samples - problem with this practice IMHO is that I shared that exact chip or the formula with everyone there would be a bunch of 69 Dearborn cars that all had the exact same color underneath - basically cookie- cutters of one another in that area




This scanned example is the lighter one from the group on the lower right in the picture above




As for your two specific needs yes they are very different in look and finish. For your floor color - since you seem to know what color is why did you not match it (just asking) before you stripped it?   And I take it that you do not have a spare 3 rd member to match to

Floor color: My VIN is 7R1274XX and I have tried taking a few shots this morning to better get eveyone an idea what color I have on mine. My camera (quality) skills are NOT helping much in capturing the true color either.

I carried my iPad out to compare my floor to the colors on my monitor of the ones you posted and of the colors in the panel cuts you posted.  The lightest color one and the shot of the underbody are definately very close. I believe the color of mine actually looks a bit paler in reality, to the underbody picture and the lightest panel cut pictured. As you said, probably because the way a camera or the image being displayed is different than reality.

Here are a couple of shots I took last week. The closest match to what I actually see is somewhere between the two colors of MY images. The ones I took today do not help much.

As far as the 3rd member color, that we'll need to address at another time.


Richard

[J_Speegle]

Floor color: My VIN is 7R1274XX and I have tried taking a few shots this morning to better get eveyone an idea what color I have on mine. My camera (quality) skills are NOT helping much in capturing the true color either.

Yep the challenge. There is a fair amount of difference between the tone of the two pictures you posted


The shot of the floor I posted is from your cars period - vin is similar. The sample from my collection is from 20,000 earlier