Topic: Synthetic or conventional

[jperls]

Hi everyone,

So this might be a strange question, but I could be wrong. So I talked with a neighbor of mine who said I should switch to synthetic oil instead of using conventional oil. Right now I am using 10W30 conventional oil. The engine is a bone stock 302 that was re-built in 1983 and has around 15,000 miles on it. I am assuming I am still running a stock roller cam made for the car (pretty sure the mustang did not come with a flat tappet cam). I probably only drive the car around 500 miles per year or so and change the oil once a year (when it gets dirty).

So is my neighbor yanking my chain into spending more money or possibly damaging my engine, or am I safe. This question also applies to transmission fluid, radiator fluid (I am pretty sure there is a synthetic coolant out there), and rear-differential lubricant.

Many thanks,

Jason

[jwc66k]

I use 20W-50 or 30W regular oil and have for decades. The synthetic oil is good and expensive, make that very expensive. If you were racing, maybe. For general driving, stick with real oil, and why 10W30? Seems too thin.
Jim

[J_Speegle]

Unless its been upgraded the motor would have flat tappets - like all the millions of others from the era.

Have heard issues with synthetics for traction locks and top loaders - for a regular engine I would prefer to stay with the old tech  especially when I would be changing not due to mileage but do to age the engine oil.

For the Boss (rollers) I will be using Brad Penn at about $8 a quart

Plenty of reading out there about the low zinc oils and problems with wiping cams and lifter out. Have seen dozens of engines hurt this way since the government removed or at least lowered the stuff

Do a goggle or yahoo search and start reading

 

[jperls]

Unless its been upgraded the motor would have flat tappets - like all the millions of others from the era.

Have heard issues with synthetics for traction locks and top loaders - for a regular engine I would prefer to stay with the old tech  especially when I would be changing not due to mileage but do to age the engine oil.

For the Boss (rollers) I will be using Brad Penn at about $8 a quart

Plenty of reading out there about the low zinc oils and problems with wiping cams and lifter out. Have seen dozens of engines hurt this way since the government removed or at least lowered the stuff

Do a goggle or yahoo search and start reading

I have no clue if I am a roller or flat tappet...is there a way that I can tell which type I have without taking the engine apart? I have been using conventional oil for years (added an zinc additive once or twice, but have not noticed any real difference).

thanks...feel I might as well stick to what I use...think my neighbor was trying to sell me...

[69RavenConv]

If your engine was rebuilt in 1983, it's unlikely to have a roller cam, as I don't believe Ford was using them in new engines at that time. To detect one, roller cams have a distinctive sound, or you could pull the intake manifold.

As far as oil selection, it's a lot like politics or religion in that you can get some very passionate opinions on all sides. My view is that synthetic oil has some appealing properties, especially for engines that rack up a lot of miles, or are run under harsh conditions, while dino oil, if clean and changed in a timely manner, can serve you perfectly well, especially in a lightly used classic. I use dino in my '69 small block with aftermarket roller cam conversion. YMMV.

[Rsanter]

Synthetic oil is typically thinner and dies not stick to the parts as well. For running that is a good thing.
Problem is that it has a tendency to all,drop,off the parts and into,the  pan more than conventional oil.
For an occasional use car like you have stick to the old stuff and you will be fine.
If you rebuild an engine and can keep the tolerances tight then you can benifits from lighter weight synthetic oil

Bob

[kcodecoupe]

I have been using Brad Penn 10w30 in my 70 B2 and 65 K code, both cars are flat tappet , i run the K car at the local drag strip weekends with no issues so far.

[ruppstang]

I tried Amsoil synthetic because I had heard that you could get better MPGs with it. I could not see that it made much difference. Even though it was more expensive I thought I could go longer on oil changes. My oil consumption doubled. So I changed back to conventional Valvoline 10-30W. 

[carlite65]

i had a friend who tried synthetic. he had engine leaks where previously he had none. he switched back & the leaks quit.

[jperls]

Thanks everyone...I thought my neighbor was yanking my chain so to speak and all of your responses confirm this. Found out he used to be an Amsol dealer so that really explains a lot.

Thanks once again.

[tony 63C]

carlite65 echoes what I have read (and heard) more than a few times.  An engine that starts out on conventional oil is more apt to spring leaks when the switch to synthetic is made.  I use Lucas Oil 10W40 "Hot Rod & Classic" with the extra ZDDP.  It's specifically made for the older hobby cars that need the zinc and do sit for longer spells without being driven.

Cheers,
Tony