Topic: 67-68 Rear Valance Photos Wanted OE or Aftermarket, Exhaust Cutouts or Standard

[67gtasanjose]

Does anybody have close up pictures of both styles of rear valances, with or without exhaust openings. Original or aftermarkets.
Please state if the photo is an OE valance or not, if you do not mind. Thanks.

My rear valance has enough little things wrong with it to consider changing it out.
Maybe, used, in better condition might not be a bad idea, but matching dates can be a challenge  (maybe not a requirement, per-say) and usually there is always something wrong with these at 50 years old anyways.

How awful do any of those aftermarket ones fit? Are they even close to matching originals? Are the mounting holes where they belong or do you have to fight the fitment? Any recommendations on that idea?

Richard

[Dudley]

I only have the non-GT, original equipment

[dave6768]

Correct Ford part on my 68 and 67...although the 67 was not original.+

here's my 67 with a Ford service part and aftermarket tips.


here's my 68 with original sheet metal

[67gtasanjose]

Thanks for pictures, they help e lot. The 68 has no bumperettes? I guess I thought any car without them had them removed. Interesting....

Richard

[dave6768]

No bumper guards on the back of the 68.  The front has chrome guards.

Without rear guards, I think the valence looks like it's buldging a bit.  The valance looks better with bumper guards.

[ruppstang]

Here is our 68 HCS with a original valance. The detailing around the cut outs is much more crisp on a original than on a aftermarket.

Bumperettes were standard at the start  of the 68 model year but after the strike in late 67 they became optional as a group with the wheel opening moldings. Regardless before or after the strike if a car had bumperettes they were on front and back.

[dave6768]

The strike thing makes sense in 68.  Now I have a quandary.  I have fronts but no backs.

Oops, quandary solved....Went back an found some old photos (1971) of the 68 and no front bumper guards.  Dad must have added them somewhere along the timeline.   I guess they are coming off.

Thanks

[67gtasanjose]

What I am thinking of is Do I do extensive repairs ?to the original, a not rusty at all, been repainted 3 times, twice with the bulletproof, impervious to conventional strippers Imron paint, been dinged here and there, (several previous repairs painted over) been bent in the corner meeting up to the 1/4 panel, been bent up behind the spring shackle...a rather tough, but not impossible feat.

...or Do I try Dynacorn or another replacement part? (based on the high probability of dissatisfaction over buying original pieces in similar condition)

...or does anybody have a known good alternative?

Thanks, Richard

[ruppstang]

What I am thinking of is Do I do extensive repairs ?to the original, a not rusty at all, been repainted 3 times, twice with the bulletproof, impervious to conventional strippers Imron paint, been dinged here and there, (several previous repairs painted over) been bent in the corner meeting up to the 1/4 panel, been bent up behind the spring shackle...a rather tough, but not impossible feat.

...or Do I try Dynacorn or another replacement part? (based on the high probability of dissatisfaction over buying original pieces in similar condition)

...or does anybody have a known good alternative?

Thanks, Richard

What are you looking for a standard or GT? Standards are not hard to find, I may have one.

[ruppstang]

No bumper guards on the back of the 68.  The front has chrome guards.

Without rear guards, I think the valence looks like it's buldging a bit.  The valance looks better with bumper guards.

Dave does you 68 have the wheel opening moldings? If so I would add the rear bumperettes to make it correctly optioned. The PO add the wheel opening molding on our HCS so to correct that I am going to add the bumperettes. As I said they were only offered together as a RPO.

[67gtasanjose]

What are you looking for a standard or GT? Standards are not hard to find, I may have one.

My original was standard, yet I would prefer the GT, I have been planning that direction for many years. Availability and fitment are key to the final decision. I bought a GT rear apron around 1997 and the tips (aftermarket from Must Unlimed) and not pleased with the fitment on the valance. I am hoping for OE GT type or at very least, an Aftermarket that doesn't require a complete reworking. I'd consider a non-GT for Concours surplus, should I wish to change back at a later date.

Richard

[67gta289]

Don't think you'll be happy with repop.

Top set of pictures (blue) is original from 68, middle set (red primer) Ford NOS early 80's, bottom set (gray primer) repop.

[67gta289]

Notice the original is galvanized.  Also note the weld "dimples" - Ford felt no need to finish those off.  The NOS version is a little spattered in that are but no dimple.

The repops are different in a couple ways.  First the exhaust openings are quite off in detail.  Second the exhaust openings are actually shifted and don't line up with the original or NOS part, which would make exhaust tip line up more difficult.  Lastly the overall length is a little shorter going from memory.

You see NOS ones on eBay from time to time - I just picked one up a couple weeks ago.

[67gtasanjose]

John. you are one at this site who has come through time and time again for me. Thanks for those pictures. Just what I wanted, a side-by-side comparison.

As I said earlier, I had a new repop from the 90's and tested it this morning. It is shorter maybe about 1/4 inch. My left side, below the bumper had a repair made there in about '85 after my now ex-wife backed into a car (That might sound harsh, but my Mustang IS my first <3 LOVE <3 lol! ). That side actually fits better than the right side which never had damage! (using the pre-punched holes for the screws, only 1/2 of which lined up)

If you happen to see another one, keep me posted. If you are having 2nd thoughts on the one you just bought, let me know

Thanks again!
Richard

[67gtasanjose]

A swing and a base hit! Not a homerun by the NOS or OE Ford part standard, but perty darn good for a Taiwan part.
DYNACORN is the brand. The drivers side quarter had been repaired before (notice the top is off) so that side is really close to perfect. It looks like the passengers side got dinked in handling but a rather easy fix. The icing on the cake, all the punched holes line up correctly. Only downside, the cut-outs are shaped like all other aftermarkets. Just a little off. Look at the pictures John posted in a previous post. These are the same in that regard. If they had that right too, we'd be talking clean sweep!~

6/28/14 UPDATED INFO on Dynacorn part:

1.) The exhaust outlets line up perfectly when laid up along an OE valance with cutouts, both sides, so exhaust alignment would be spot-on. As mentioned earlier, the designing of the lip or flare around the opening seems to be the only significant difference, and if you didn't have them side-by-side, probably impossible to notice.

2.) The Dynacorn item is much heavier than the original. A stripped down OE panel weighs aprox. 4lb. 3.4 oz. and a new Dynacorn is 5lb. 1/2oz. so the Dynacorn is actually a stronger part. Noticably heavier when you pick it up, so I carried them to my postal scale.

and the "dink" as I called it was indeed from shipping. A simple twist with a pair of needle-nose plyers and it was perfect.

Richard