Topic: originality vs upgrades - Hipo 289 engine rebuild

[livetoride60]

Wanted to get some opinions on what upgrades were considered "ok" when doing a Hipo 289 rebuild. I don't mean a new Holley carb. I mean using as many of the original parts as possible, but with upgrades to handle modern fuels, make the engine more reliable, etc, while still retaining enough desirable originality. I'd be interested in opinions or if anyone's had experience with some of these. A list and my thoughts below. I'd be interested to hear other suggestions as well.

This is for the original VIN stamped Hipo motor on a real K-code, so thus my concern for originality.  Also, I'm just going to enjoy for now, but eventually hope to restore for Concourse driven class so don't want to do anything that could hurt that.  Most of these won't be visible of course, except maybe the bright blue one piece oil pan gasket.

Thanks,
Rich

- hardened valve seats - Yes, a no brainer if you're going to drive the car.
- stainless steel vs original valves - handles modern fuels and heat better.
- viton valve seals vs original umbrella - requires some machining to make the viton seal grab I believe. Supposed to be more effective than old style
- gapless piston rings - overlapping top rings like those from Total Seal - supposed to greatly reduce blowby, even as rings wear. Is this something that's worth it on a stock Hipo that's just doing to be driven on the road?
- 1 piece viton Fel pro oil pan gasket - probably going to do this. Looks like it's worth it.
- machining crank for 1 piece 5.0 rear main oil seal. - probably won't go this far. I've heard a 2 piece with gaps offset from main cap gaps an a couple drops of silicone are fine.
- crank Hipo hatchet - it's already been fitted for a double roller timing chain.  Not sure yet if it was rebalanced.  I have a NOS hatchet.  Put it back on or not?  Plan to have rotating assembly balance either way.
- where to lose weight (drill) when having rotating assembly balanced.  - Think I read somewhere to NOT have them take weight from your balancer or flywheel so they would remain original, i.e. just the holes drilled from the factory.  Assume they'd have to take from your crank only in that case.

[Rsanter]

I have built a ton of engines over the years and for a good driver I have a combination I think works great.

Heads

Port the heads. You don't have to go all that far but clean them up. Pay a lot of attention to smoothing the bowl area above the valve and open the exhaust port up to the size of the stock exhaust gasket.

I stall bronze liners and use stainless one piece valves

Hard valve seats and port to the valve seat so there is no machine ridge at the base of the seat.

You can use the roller tip rockers under the stock valve covers.

Block

Take a grinder and on the inside you want to smooth all the little casting rough edges and casting lines.

De-bur the oil drain back hole above the timing chain and chanfer the oil drain back holes in the corner of the valley

Install screw in plugs behind the timing chain

Leave the 2 piece crank seal, it works fine. The people that change this are interested in the fact that the one piece has less drag. Not worth it unless you are racing

The last thing I like to do but it's a bunch more work is to take a die grinder and smooth the inside of the block. This helps promote oil drain back as the cast surfaces hold onto the oil more. Very minor difference so this is an optional one but I like it.

Install the boss 302 windage tray. Cheap and it's worth it

Crank

Tape up the journals and use a 4" grinder to smooth some of the throws of the crank. The crank will shed oil better this way. Minor difference but every little bit helps

Rods

Remove the parting line on the rods and smooth the outer part of the beam. This reduces the weight of them a little and removes the stress risers

Balance

Do not modify the Ballancer or the flywheel. Do the balancing on the crank itself. I do not use the hatchet

I like all tolerances to the tight side and use synthetic oil. 5-w30.
You can also weld a baffel in the bottom of the stock oil pan

If you are going to run the hipo exhaust you can port those too. Mostly taking out roughness and lumps but not really trying to make it big

With a similar combo, custom ground cam, aluminum intake(ported), electronic ignition, MSD, high voltage coil, 2.25 dual exhaust, full roller rockers, 5 angle valve job..... I was getting right around 320-325 at the wheels on
the dyno.
This combo was very streetable, had a 60s healthy rumble that you would expect but didn't shake the car. Still got good mileage is I kept my foot out of it.
By the way. I was clocked at 143mph with this setup

Bob

[J_Speegle]

Would do the seats in the heads and leave it at that  - the rest factory. Might consider the timing chain change but not the oil pan gasket, porting the heads or other modifications unless your going to be racing the car. IMHO no reason to over build - your not going to notice the differences given the typical use of these cars.

Just getting ready to drop my Boss 302 in. On that did the heads, roller rockers (though this required modifying the valve covers   and cam as well as modifying the pistons to handle modern crappy fuels

Of course if you want a hot rod go fast engine you might want to ask over on a non-Concours site then start considering a stroker and such

[livetoride60]

Thanks Jeff and Bob.  I'm not looking for a go fast setup on this car, more an interest in originality with necessary or reversible upgrades.  Going with the hardened seats, but no port matching or head porting or modifying the original parts otherwise.  Definitely not going to race, just want a fun driver for a while.  I can use that great write up on my C-code coupe though Bob, which I'm going to hop up a little bit.

One thing I'm curious about Jeff is why you say no to the one-piece oil pan gasket?  Seems like something easily reversible that can help eliminate leaks.  Is it not enough of a difference over stock 4 piece rubber & cork, or just advising to keep it stock?  I would plan remove it when going for a concourse resto later.

Thanks,
Rich

[krelboyne]

If it were me, I would not go over 9:1 compression. Which will allow pump gasoline.

[J_Speegle]

One thing I'm curious about Jeff is why you say no to the one-piece oil pan gasket?  Seems like something easily reversible that can help eliminate leaks.  Is it not enough of a difference over stock 4 piece rubber & cork, or just advising to keep it stock?  I would plan remove it when going for a concourse resto later.

Would not go that way (haven't in any recent build) since it does not look stock and I've never had a problem with the factory style stuff.

Got to remember where  and from whom your asking the questions of I'm not looking at making my cars better - they lasted almost 50 years just fine without me trying to out think them. 

If I wanted to do that I would go back to building modified car - been there done that - Concours is much easier LOL

[livetoride60]

Concours is much easier LOL

LOL.  I'll take your word for it. 

All that needs is a wing to look like a Superbird.