The single "hardest" thing was getting a container large enough to hold them for phosphating!
I got my pan at a local restaurant supply store, but have seen similar on Amazon and e-bay. What you need is a stainless steel pan 11 1/2 x 12 3/4 x 3 7/8 inches in size. I think it's called a half size serving pan. It MUST be stainless steel (SST).The pan needs to be filled to 3 3/4 inches deep to cover the "high" spots, or you can use a SST rod (or a SST strainer) to splash the tall parts. I got an 19 inch long stainless steel fish poaching pan on e-bay to phosphate long items, like the center link and the strut rods.
This is a technique that takes some experience to get a good finish.
Some things to consider:
- Air blow the items prior to phosphating to remove excess blasting media.
- Don't touch the items with bare hands.
- Water temperature must be over 180F at all times.
- The amount of phosphoric acid you add depends on what shade of finish you desire. Springs are normally darker than hinges, latches.
- Time is another factor, two minutes for a light shade, ten minutes maximum.
- I prefer to air dry in the sun as oven drying tends to leave a rusty looking finish. Using compressed air works sometimes.
- Oil as soon as the item is dry. I use both 20 weight motor oil and WD-40.
- I use a metal blackening solution on hardware (bolts mostly) prior to phosphating to get a dark finish. It used to be available from Eastwood.
- When cool, I pour the acid mix into a 5 gallon plastic paint bucket and add a cup or two of borax (laundry soap) to neutralize it. When the liquid has evaporated it can be disposed of.
The picture of the two hinges is after, done in 2007.
The second is the left hand hinge on my 66 "K" Fastback, also done in 2007. Periodic spraying with WD-40 keeps rust from forming,
Jim
