Topic: shifter and sport lamp wiring

[rayms69]

hopefully you can see these wires, there is a black and blue with red stripe coming from the same spot in the wiring harness, dull black one coming from behind the instrument cluster, and a black one coming from the sport lamp switch. Have have tried a few different combos, the 15 amp fuse blows when I put on the turn signals, I thought maybe with sportlamps the fuse needs to be 20 amp. Just figured the pic would help someone to remember how this should be put together.

[midlife]

Black and blue/red wires are tied into the headlamp switch marker lamp system (wire between the big thick power input line and the blue/red dash lamp line).  The gray wire is your output from the sportslamp switch and goes through the firewall connector to the sportslamps.  The system does not go through the fuse box.  The one wire coming out of the sportslamp switch that is tied together with another line with exposed copper strands does not look right at all.

The sportslamps will only work with the headlamp switch in the first or second pulled position.

Black wires in the main harness are typically ground wires; the blue wire looks somewhat like a cigarette lighter line to me, but it could be the dash lamp fuse.  If you are blowing the 15 amp fuse, there are 2 15 amp fuses: one (upper fuse) controls radio, backup lamp power, wiper return power, and turn signal input power; the other controls the horn and e-flasher power (lower fuse).

[rayms69]

the fuse I keep blowing is turn signal fuse, when I hook the black near shift light(blue/red) to the black on the sportlamp switch black, the sportlamps and turn signals work, when I actuate the turn signals fuse blows. when I hook the blue/red to the two black wires(sportlamp and probably headlight power) everything works. Not sure if it will blow the fuse then, maybe the draw from the shiftlight will prevent the fuse from blowing? Don't know what the faded black wire goes to, I don't have any wires hooked up right now, that's an older pic.

[midlife]

To isolate it from the sportslamp switch or the turn signal switch, simply disconnect the sportslamp switch connector.  If the fuse continues to blow, it's not the sportslamp wiring. 

[rayms69]

will do, the turn signals worked perfectly before I got the sportlamps involved. I had to modify the sportlamp light socket to work, only used to connections + and -. Could this be a source of my problems, I have a set with 3 prongs, they were just not as nice as I wanted, or is one leg dead? Thanks mid

[midlife]

will do, the turn signals worked perfectly before I got the sportlamps involved. I had to modify the sportlamp light socket to work, only used to connections + and -. Could this be a source of my problems, I have a set with 3 prongs, they were just not as nice as I wanted, or is one leg dead? Thanks mid

The sportslamp switch and connector uses only two prongs.  I'm confused about the 3 prongs.  Can you take a picture of the underside of the connector and the switch itself?  Sounds like you have a switch with a similar design but not for sportslamps.

[rayms69]

I was talking about the lens/bulb assy, the connectors to the headlight harness, I had to modify NOS set from some other car with only one female and one male connector, I have seen originals with 2 males and 1 female. I was just wondering if that could be part of my problems

[midlife]

The wiring to the lamps themselves?  Yes, they only used two wires but in a three-pin plug (one pin is blanked out).  The wires used were power (grey) and ground (black). 

[rayms69]

That's good news, thanks for ur help midlife

[rayms69]

The black wire coming from the harness next to the blue/red wire has power, that lone dull black wire I believe goear from left to right courtesy lights under the dash, but they work,  I'm gonna try bblack to blue/red and connect them to the sport lamp switch and see what happens

[rayms69]

does anyone have pics of their wiring in this area???