Topic: Best Repro. Fuel Sending Unit?

[drummingrocks]

Hi guys,  I looked at and purchased a '67 289 coupe last night.  It has what I'm assuming is the original gas tank, and apparently lots of rust was breaking up out of the tank.  The car would run for a few minutes, and then starve for fuel.  Since the carburetor is new/remanufactured and I don't want to contaminate it, I thought I'd simply replace everything.

NPD lists two reproduction fuel sending units for a '67.  One is listed as "the most accurate we've tried--comprable to an original Ford unit," for $26.95.  However, Scott Drake makes a stainless steel unit, for $45.95, but with no notes about how accurate the sender is.  I've had good luck with Scott Drake in the past, and I don't mind paying more if the SD part is indeed the better part.  I'm just concerned that the cheaper option may be more accurate.  Anyone have experience with these?  What's the best way to go?

Thanks!

[TLea]

  What's the best way to go?

Thanks!

option # 3 NOS
I know they are getting pricey but its the only one that is consistent

[Rsanter]

Is the original one still working?
If so then take it out, clean it up a bit. Check the float for condition.
Replace the o ring, the fuel sock filter at the end of the pickup and the float if needed and just go with it.

Do you have a pressure washer? You can take the fuel tank out and blast the heck out of it sticking the PW nozzle into the tank and re-use the tank if it otherwise in good shape

Bob

[drummingrocks]

Is the original one still working?

I just bought the car.  The previous owner replaced much of the fuel system, including a new carburetor and fuel pump, so I'm assuming he probably changed the sending unit out as well.

[67gta289]

option # 3 NOS
I know they are getting pricey but its the only one that is consistent

The problem with NOS for the 67 is that in 68 the tube went from 5/16 to 3/8.  By 1980 (when I bought mine) the only NOS available from Ford was the C8 3/8" version, most likely superceding the C7 version pretty early.  The NOS C8 parts are getting pricey, and I would think that an NOS C7 5/16" version would be ultra rare (and priced accordingly.)

A cleaned up used C7 part would be easier to find and afford for those that want to retain the correct equipment.

Here is an NOS 67 for $850 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nos-1967-Mustang-Shelby-Fuel-tank-sending-unit-FoMoCo-Script-67-date-code-RARE-/321219800819?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4aca312ef3#ht_177wt_1399

[drummingrocks]

Here is an NOS 67 for $850 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nos-1967-Mustang-Shelby-Fuel-tank-sending-unit-FoMoCo-Script-67-date-code-RARE-/321219800819?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4aca312ef3#ht_177wt_1399

I saw that one on eBay too.  To me, that's a part that needs to be going on a high-dollar Shelby or some other rare car, not a garden variety 289 coupe like I've got.

[Rsanter]

Keep in mind that if you really have to have an 'original' you can get a non working one and get the repo for parts
Take the electrical portion off the repo and weld it to the original. From the pot side it will look all correct

Bob

[jwc66k]

There are three things that typically go wrong with the fuel level sensor: gasket (it leaks), an easily replaced item; the float (it fills up with gas), sort of easy to replace; resistance winding (wears out from the slider rubbing the wire open, replacing the resistance wire assembly is not easy to do for the first time, but do-able. The resistance should be 78 ohms when the tank is empty (I think, or full, but it's still 78 ohms). The particle filter does on affect fuel level readings, but if full of crud will restrict fuel flow.
Jim

[midlife]

High resistance is when the tank is empty; low resistance when the tank is full.

[Oz390]

not a garden variety 289 coupe like I've got.

Yep, an $850 part on a 10k car doesn't add 10% to the resale price!  NOS is becoming a luxury for the few big $ restorers.

[CharlesTurner]

Yep, an $850 part on a 10k car doesn't add 10% to the resale price!  NOS is becoming a luxury for the few big $ restorers.

Most times, restoring original parts yields a better final result than NOS.  The mentality of having everything new in a "box" is becoming outdated and shows little skill in how to truly restore a car.

[J_Speegle]

Tried recently to "restore" an original 71 (429CJ) fuel sender (since they are pretty much unavailable in NOS or reproduction form)  but after attemtping to swap pieces and parts from reproductions, other sending units and repair kits I finally gave in and modified a reproduction