Author Topic: 68 Lower Control Arm Bushing Question  (Read 1121 times)

Offline dkknab

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Re: 68 Lower Control Arm Bushing Question
« Reply #15 on: October 30, 2024, 03:32:53 PM »
Here's some progress.  At the end of the day I'm guessing I won't be able to use these in my car but at least I can say I have it a try.

On the left I've pushed in the bushing but as I had noticed two small cracks in the flanges prior to installing the bushings I knew it was going to be a problem.  I'm guessing I could spot weld the two cracks.

On the right side I'm not going to push out the sleeve.  I'm thinking I'd end up with a bigger mess.  So I'm going to try to install just the rubber bushing and inner sleeve and see how that looks.

And I still don't know about the rivets.
David Knab

1968 Sunlit Gold Coupe Sprint B
289 2V, AT, PS
Nugget Gold Interior
April 5, 1968 Build Date, Metuchen Plant

2019 Bullitt Highland Green K7662

Offline Bob Gaines

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Re: 68 Lower Control Arm Bushing Question
« Reply #16 on: October 30, 2024, 04:54:43 PM »
Typically the rubber ether falls out of the sleeve because of old age and wear or you have to use a torch to burn the rubber out leaving the sleeve. The aftermarket rubber bushing designed to slide inside the sleeve are typically a dense plastic not rubber which has a different look. It is a good alternative for a driver car but not one where original look is the priority IMO. There are other ways it looks different as well look . The way they are made to work the sides stick out from the sleeve and have a the plastic lip over the sleeve. The installed aftermarket bushing in the arm is the opposite look of the factory bushing where the metal sleeve lip sticks out and the rubber is inside. Once installed the difference can admittedly be easy missed but a difference all the same .They also can be a bear to install because with the aftermarket bushing the width of the arm is wider than the factory . The unibody is not designed for the extra width that the aftermarket installed bushing create . It can be done for sure but easy is not a word I would use for the arm installation on the car. Again I think that you are beating a dead horse with your effort to work over the lower arms the way you are. If you can't make it look like factory the repro even with any shortcomings the repro arms have (not with the repro arm bushings ;) )  become a better option more and more. In your class a good repro will not be a deduction or at least a smaller one then a original arm worked over with wrong parts and lesser workmanship. Just my opinion . Others may have a different one.
Bob Gaines,Shelby enthusiast, Shelby collector , Shelby concours judge SAAC,MCA,Mid America Shelby

Offline dkknab

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Re: 68 Lower Control Arm Bushing Question
« Reply #17 on: October 30, 2024, 05:40:11 PM »
I've tried to push out the sleeve from the black LCA but I just can't get enough of a grab on the sleeve versus the arm itself so I worry I'll really destroy the arm which is why I thought maybe the after market bushing is the way to go.  We're talking a 1/16 inch difference.  I could always make some cuts on the sleeve and then beat it out but that doesn't seem right. Lastly I was going to trim the after market bushing so the lip didn't show.  We'll see. Are we having fun yet? That's a joke of course.  Thanks Bob for hanging in there with me through my struggles. Maybe if nothing else I'll confirm as you all have said repeatedly,  rebuilding vs modifying good repros is not the easy to go.
David Knab

1968 Sunlit Gold Coupe Sprint B
289 2V, AT, PS
Nugget Gold Interior
April 5, 1968 Build Date, Metuchen Plant

2019 Bullitt Highland Green K7662

Offline Bob Gaines

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Re: 68 Lower Control Arm Bushing Question
« Reply #18 on: October 30, 2024, 06:42:00 PM »
I've tried to push out the sleeve from the black LCA but I just can't get enough of a grab on the sleeve versus the arm itself so I worry I'll really destroy the arm which is why I thought maybe the after market bushing is the way to go.  We're talking a 1/16 inch difference.  I could always make some cuts on the sleeve and then beat it out but that doesn't seem right. Lastly I was going to trim the after market bushing so the lip didn't show.  We'll see. Are we having fun yet? That's a joke of course.  Thanks Bob for hanging in there with me through my struggles. Maybe if nothing else I'll confirm as you all have said repeatedly,  rebuilding vs modifying good repros is not the easy to go.
I am the first one to advocate for restoring a proper core over a repro part however without prior experience doing this difficult job and without the proper tools I am concerned that you have unrealistic expectations on what you are going to end up with at the end of all of your work and effort. I hope that my concern is not justified..
Bob Gaines,Shelby enthusiast, Shelby collector , Shelby concours judge SAAC,MCA,Mid America Shelby

Offline carlite65

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Re: 68 Lower Control Arm Bushing Question
« Reply #19 on: October 30, 2024, 07:16:13 PM »
sometimes you just got to know when to say when. as for the rivets i say send them to marcus. it will speed up your progress and be work you can trust.
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