Topic: 68 NJ April 2nd Build Date Bolt Head finish and icons

[brbeardm]

So, the "near" concours journey continues. I did some inspection today. Many of my fender bolts have a rectangle "Flag" or "Flame" icon on theme. Some of the fender bolts have a big "T" on them where the top bar of the T spans the whole bolt head. My hood latch bar has a "CY" on them The hood hinge bolts have an Anchor. Not sure what is on my horn bolts (perhaps I/S? My door hinge bolts have a "F" on them. I assume it was a grab bag of bolts when Ford put these together, multiple suppliers, etc... so what then is viewed as concours correct for my April built 68 Convertible GT? I'll keep all I can and refinish them... I think the only one I can get are the Anchor icon bolts.

[J_Speegle]

Thing you will find that there was not a "grab bag of bolts when Ford put these together," but rather containers of hardware at each station than was changed out once the container was empty or near empty which from what we've collected creates patterns.

Will have to see what I can add to the discussion after finding other late March - early April 68 NJ examples. Hopefully others may have something to offer also.

BTW: Welcome to the site. Hope you find the information and support you are seeking to complete your restoration

[dkknab]

Here's a quick inventory of my bolts.

All the fender bolts were originally the T bolts. Since I couldn't clean them up sufficiently I've replaced them all with the S bolts.

The 2 horn bolts and the bolts that bolt the hood locking bar are anchor bolts.

And the 2 bolts on either side of the hood bar are the T bolts.

So it seems maybe in my case all the bolts were the T bolts and when they added the horns and the hood bar they used the anchor bolts.  Hope that helps.

[jwc66k]

Here's a quick inventory of my bolts.

All the fender bolts were originally the T bolts. Since I couldn't clean them up sufficiently I've replaced them all with the S bolts.

The 2 horn bolts and the bolts that bolt the hood locking bar are anchor bolts.

And the 2 bolts on either side of the hood bar are the T bolts.

So it seems maybe in my case all the bolts were the T bolts and when they added the horns and the hood bar they used the anchor bolts.  Hope that helps.

They all have a head marking "type" assigned by AMK for identification purposes. Those drawings are posted in this forums library.
They all have Ford hardware part numbers. Those part numbers can also be found in this forums library under topic "Mustang Hardware Spreadsheet 67-68" in part number order and by application (use). Both spreadsheets have references to where the part's specifications (eg: dimensions and finish) were found, and where the use was found.
The world revolves around numbers. Mustangs are no exception.
Jim

[J_Speegle]

First want to thank dkknab for offering what he had found

Unfortunately not as many people taking close up pictures of hardware/head markings as we have for other years and plants. Here is what can offer


For fender bolts I must say in general 68 NJ cars appears to have allot of different suppliers for their fender attachment making patterns shorter or more difficult. Below are a group of examples from 8T1864-8T19322xx-8T1992xx-8T1996xx. Like often happens we don't have real build dates for each so some may be built a week or two before or after your car or others with VINs starting with 8T20xxxx. Some of the later 8T20xxx start turning up flag head markings mixed with others




Only other I was able to find a picture of was the picture below from 8T1924xx

[jwc66k]

Some of the fender bolts have a big "T" on them where the top bar of the T spans the whole bolt head.

OK. I can't stand it. In 1968 (or late 1967 for a partial), Ford Motor Company implemented a new standard for hardware "grades", grade 5.1. Instead of the previous grade 5 marking of three lines 120 degrees apart marked on bolt heads, it was identified on bolts as three lines, one at 12 o'clock, one at 3 o'clock, and one at 9 o'clock -  a "T" or upside down "T", depending on how you hold the bolt.
Jim

[brbeardm]

This is great information, much thanks to all for the help and guidance!

So for bolt: 378168-S39 is there a way to know what image was on this bolt... "Anchor", "4-dot T", "S over 3 lines", "RBW". I've ordered the "AMK Guide to Ford Fasteners". Does this address this detail?

I'm thinking of using:

for Fender Tops, and Hood Latch Support:
 --- AMK F-1783 - "4 DOTS" CAD - with 3,9,12 o'clock line forming a "T" as shown in the pics below with 4 Dots across the top of the T bar.

For Hood Hinge to Hood, Hoot Latch L-Bar, Shock Tower Covers:
--- AMK F-2887 - "Anchor"

Am I close here or missing something. i'd like to be as accurate as reasonably possible.

thanks,
Brian

[jwc66k]

So for bolt: 378168-S39 is there a way to know what image was on this bolt... "Anchor", "4-dot T", "S over 3 lines", "RBW".

Remember, the "T" is a hardware grade marking.

I've ordered the "AMK Guide to Ford Fasteners". Does this address this detail?

Yes and no. Ford had a lot of hardware suppliers and three different plants building Mustangs. Several of us tried to "document" bolt head markings, but it involves plant, year, finish, assembly line "emergency" replacements and workers. My file got to be over 26,000 lines. The book gives the hardware specifications without finish (in most cases), and the finish section describes the code.

I'm thinking of using:
for Fender Tops, and Hood Latch Support:
 --- AMK F-1783 - "4 DOTS" CAD - with 3,9,12 o'clock line forming a "T" as shown in the pics below with 4 Dots across the top of the T bar.
For Hood Hinge to Hood, Hoot Latch L-Bar, Shock Tower Covers:
--- AMK F-2887 - "Anchor"

The part number of the bolt is the most important item. From there, determine what you need. The bad news is that most of the current aftermarket bolts have the incorrect marking. What you have to do is locate correct used bolts, get them refinished and use them. It's part of the restoration "dilemma".
Jim

[J_Speegle]

This is great information, much thanks to all for the help and guidance!

So for bolt: 378168-S39 is there a way to know what image was on this bolt... "Anchor", "4-dot T", "S over 3 lines", "RBW". I've ordered the "AMK Guide to Ford Fasteners". Does this address this detail?

I'm thinking of using:

for Fender Tops, and Hood Latch Support:
 --- AMK F-1783 - "4 DOTS" CAD - with 3,9,12 o'clock line forming a "T" as shown in the pics below with 4 Dots across the top of the T bar.

For Hood Hinge to Hood, Hoot Latch L-Bar, Shock Tower Covers:
--- AMK F-2887 - "Anchor"

Am I close here or missing something. i'd like to be as accurate as reasonably possible.

Think we skipped a step or maybe I missed it. Is there a reason your not just using what you found on the car in the majority of the locations you reported if you have confirmed that they are like other cars built around the same time and plant?

IMHO there is really no reason to use new replacement bolts unless yours are unusable - threads damaged, head markings so pitting you can read them sort of thing

[brbeardm]

Think we skipped a step or maybe I missed it. Is there a reason your not just using what you found on the car in the majority of the locations you reported if you have confirmed that they are like other cars built around the same time and plant?

IMHO there is really no reason to use new replacement bolts unless yours are unusable - threads damaged, head markings so pitting you can read them sort of thing

Thanks. Yes, I am using what I think are the predominant bolt types in the areas I found them and in areas from other cars on this thread built around the same time and plant... but in my case, I have hodge podge of various bolts from some previous owner rebuilds (like on the fenders there are plain bolts repros, anchor bolts, S-bolts, 4-dot-T bolts, RBW, and a few others... but "mostly" 4-dot-T bolts) and, bolts painted over, rusted, pitted. I'm trying to restore what I can and go back with a consistent bolt-head approach in those areas, based on information I am learning!  Lots of learning!  I need to buy stock in EvapoRust! it doesn't just remove rust, but softens paint too!