Topic: Cerakote on 70 Mustang suspension and brake parts

[HDAshmore]

Team,

Follow up on a side bar post I had in the 69-70 Boss section.

I finally sprayed Cerkote for the first time and here are my thoughts, observation, successes and mistakes.  I've included pics for reference.

Overall I am impressed with Cerakote coverage, applicability and durability to date.  My intent was to replicate original look for from spindles and brake calipers and provide a longer lasting protection from rust road hazard impacts and chemical damage.  I used Cerkote C Series stainless color to provide enduring protection of bare/exposed metal.  Then top coated with John Deere Graphite to simulate color match of original calipers.

1.  I stripped front spindles with Cirtic Acid and Water.  Works well but you cannot let sit long without flash rust appearing.
2. Wax and grease remover
3.  I used One Choice SX 579 metal cleaner after Citric Acid de-rusting
4.  I used One Choice SX 570 Metal Conditioner to etch and provide rust protection.  Parts could sit unpainted for a long time in climate-controlled environment at this point.
5.  Cleaner parts with Brake Cleaner to get rid of all contaminate/residue.
6.  Masked machined/metal to metal surfaces and re cleaned with wax ad grease remover
7.  Sprayed two coats with Cerakote C-129 series Stainless using recommended Iwata spray gun. Outside in paint tent (this stuff stinks bad, wear respirator with filters)
8.  Waited 12 hours then sprayed with John Deere Graphite to get correct factory color. (They looked Great but a wasted effort)
9.  Waited 24 hours, then unmasked

What I learned:
1. I like Cerkote for ease of applicability and the paints technical data sheet shows how superior it is to paint or powder coating.  It sprays like a dream, doesn't fill in factory metal witness marks etc.
2. Ease of preparation, however you have to have a profile for it to adhere, sand, scuff or etch etc.
3. A little goes a long way, the Iwata gun and the thin film spray really covers well and does not fill in details you want to maintain.  I think it would work great for panels that have grain or casting marks.  Color match is the limiting factor though.
4.  I dropped the spindle by accident on my hardened garage floor.  No scuff, scrape or chip in the coating anywhere. I was actually worried about my floor more than spindle
5.  Nothing can overcoat Cerakote except Cerakote.  My John Deere Graphite was a wasted effort.  It just blew off with an air nozzle.
6. I ordered color samples to try to match the John Deere Graphite as I now have to strip the stainless off and re-shoot with a Cerkote color to match closer to original.
7.  It is worth reading the different Series and looking at the customer projects on the sites to see if you can find uses.  1,800 degree temperature and superior corrosion protection and flexibility results listed in the data sheets are impressive if you can find the right color for your requirements.

As i experiment more I will post if interested.  My future endeavors are respraying the spindles and calipers when I can match the correct color.  Also, I will spray my rear end housing and other assembly components semi-gloss black Cerkote hopefully this summer.

https://www.cerakote.com

Dan in Kansas

[J_Speegle]

Thanks for sharing. Of course painting parts is your choice but just want to remind others that painted parts for cars that are going to be shown nationally can result in point deduction if its determined that they are painted.

Over the years I've used Cerakote products on a few cast parts and found it a long living coating if applied as instructed. It's not cheap but you should only apply it very thin, which helps hide the fact that its a coating. Have seen a few times, a couple of three restorers buying a quart and splitting it to keep the costs down. Just a though or idea for some of those reading this thread.

In your descriptions you didn't mention how you cured it. I've used an oven or in some cases a local powder coater who just slipped the pieces in their oven when they were baking other customers powder coated parts.

In years past when I tired it on heat treated parts I remachined or removed the coating from the machined surfaces then oiled the parts to give it the "original look"

[Murf]

Dan, do you mind telling how much Cerakote costs and if there you purchase it locally or is it a single source product?

[HDAshmore]

Yes, I should of explained better, I'm going for original look and longevity of protection of parts, no judged cars in my future.  I just want it to be as original looking and original as possible and still not worry about damage or deteriorating every time I want to drive it around. 

I used C Series so it is air cured.  They have several series and some are heat cured and some are activator cured to affect gloss level.  Why I recommend reading on the site.

I have only ever ordered from the actual company.  Different sizes and prices but I think the cost is very reasonable. 

I don't regret anything I've done so far as I learn and experiment.  Looking forward to the rear end experiment.

Dan in Kansas

[HDAshmore]

The sizes and prices are on the website, strait from the factory.  They are easy to talk to and very customer friendly.  They are out of Oregon. 

Dan in Kansas