Topic: Original Top Loader colour(color) in a K code

[k-code]

Hi everyone!
In the process of rebuilding my K code top loader, original to my car, built in Dec '64. My David Kee rebuild kit came with the cast paint but it got me wondering, was the transmission originally rust orange or whatever its called? If so, then thats what I'll paint it.
Thanks

[Bossbill]

When I did my 67 top loader I found the included can of paint to be very close to the original cast iron color finish (i.e; no paint).
I think the red you see is cast iron rust.

Update post to indicate cast iron is the finish (no paint).

[carlite65]

case was bare cast iron. NO paint from factory. a search here will reveal more details.

[Bossbill]

Updated my post to not lead the OP to thinking these were painted.

However, a balanced original cast finish is difficult to achieve with media blasting or other common methods and immediately rusts without proper protection. And then there is the upkeep.

The paint that came with the Kees kit is very close to an original cast finish, if you don't want to mess with the pain of a natural finish.

[k-code]

Thanks for the replies. It was painted black, but a long, long time ago. I knew that wasn't original but wondered if they were rust coloured from factory like the floor pans were. I'll use the cast blast.
I did try the search function by the way but couldn't find what I was looking for.

[J_Speegle]

Have used, as some other restores have,  ceramic paint applied very thin just like I have used for exhaust manifolds. Not cheap but another application if you have already purchased a quart for other uses. Has held up very well to rusting also. With any paint you have to figure out how to address the other non cast looking surfaces if you want to reproduce the factory/original look.

[k-code]

Update to my case refinishing and questions...

I stripped off the old black paint on the case and tail housing, hot tanked them and they immediately formed a surface rust. My objective is to have a "factory like" finish that doesn't immediately rust. Car will be garage kept, driven weekends in fair weather, but I am in a moist climate.

So my thoughts are to do this:

*degrease (maybe not necessary after hot tank but will do anyway)
*POR-15 rust remover
*POR-15 metal prep

I'm not sure what to do to finish the cast components so they don't rust again. Will POR-15 metal prep be enough, or do I need to do something like a thin coat of ceramic like Jeff suggests or?
Am I on the right track?
Thanks, Andy

[Bob Gaines]

Update to my case refinishing and questions...

I stripped off the old black paint on the case and tail housing, hot tanked them and they immediately formed a surface rust. My objective is to have a "factory like" finish that doesn't immediately rust. Car will be garage kept, driven weekends in fair weather, but I am in a moist climate.

So my thoughts are to do this:

*degrease (maybe not necessary after hot tank but will do anyway)
*POR-15 rust remover
*POR-15 metal prep

I'm not sure what to do to finish the cast components so they don't rust again. Will POR-15 metal prep be enough, or do I need to do something like a thin coat of ceramic like Jeff suggests or?
Am I on the right track?
Thanks, Andy

POR metal prep will not be enough long term.If you want it exactly like original then leave the metal bare but after your POR treatment finish off with a treatment of one of a number of rust inhibitors . You will have to continually periodically treat with rust inhibitor guessing when to apply before flash rust starts to set in. Once it starts to turn it is too late. I use T9 Boe Shield for example.There are others. You can also paint it as already mentioned . Even if painting it would be prudent to follow up with a coating of rust inhibitor over the paint. 

[Bossbill]

I had similar issues here
https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=25421.0

Bare cast iron rusts almost immediately!

While some disagree, it is possible to media blast these without getting any  inside if you use yellow tape and lightly hammer tap the tape around the shaft edges. Identical to how you make gaskets.
It takes many passes with glass bead to get a uniform finish.

Blow off any remaining dust and use a cold phosphate solution like concrete clean and etch. I dislike POR products as they have caused me too many issues. Blow off the phosphate and paper towel dry. Make sure the case is dry and apply copious amounts of wd40.

Rebuild the internals. Use brakeclean on a paper towel on any area to receive markings. Next day wd40 that area.
After the trans is ready for linkage apply Boeshield.

I've let my case sit for a month with just WD and it didn't rust.

[k-code]

Thanks for the replies, very helpful.
Regarding media blasting...I have used walnut on brake backing plates with much success but they were heavily rusted/pitted and of course different material. Any comments on walnut as a blast material with respect to transmission and tail housing?

[J_Speegle]

Thanks for the replies, very helpful.
Regarding media blasting...I have used walnut on brake backing plates with much success but they were heavily rusted/pitted and of course different material. Any comments on walnut as a blast material with respect to transmission and tail housing?

Should work well IMHO. Many don't use it due to access, cost and that it does not strip as quickly as other media but cheap and quick is not always the best choice. Stuff was really easy to get here locally back in the day before they figured out other usage for it. Lots of walnuts grown around here (as well as everything else) back in the 60-80's/ Enough so that my parents used the broken shells as ground and path cover all over their yard and side yard.

[k-code]

Thanks Jeff,
Been using a local guy and he's been good, and cheap. Hopefully it doesn't immediately rust after so I'll work to prevent that.
I'll still apply the appropriate treatments after.
Very helpful forum here!

[J_Speegle]

...Very helpful forum here!

That's our aim

Glad we could help