Topic: '65/'66 Parking Brake handle assy. removal

[NEFaurora]

Subject: '65/'66 Parking Brake handle assy. removal

Ok, I've got this thing unbolted from the dash now with the cable hanging..

I know of the two drift pins, The first on the middle of the shaft, and the 2nd on the parking brake handle itself.  To get this thing out, Do I have to go under the car and release the cable?  My unit is in good clean shape, and just needs a repaint...That's why I need to get it out of the car.  Should I even bother trying to replace the handle, or will I have to cut off the original handle to get it off ?  My original handle is in good shape, It just needs paint overspray removal and detailing.  I do have a new mint handle in the box though if I want to replace it though.

Any suggestions?..before I start on a can of worms...

Thanks,


Tony K.

[Twilight65]

Tony,
To disconnect the cable you have to remove the hair-pin clip and pin and drop out the rear pulley of the brake assembly. This should give enough slack in the cable to disconnect it. If the handle shaft is all the way in, then you pull it out about an inch or so. On the bottom left side of the brake assembly there is a rectangular hole in the brake assembly that you can pull the ball out that's connected to the cable. With the ball pulled through the hole you can then pull the handle forward releasing the cable from the assembly. You can then get it out from under the dash provided you have unbolted it from the dash and firewall. To get the handle off just drive the pin inward that is on the handle it self. Then you can just pull the handle off. Once the handle is off you can drive the pin out of the shaft so you can reuse it. Unless you handle is cracked or damaged you can clean the original up with plastic polish and just repaint the letters with a paint pen. I completely disassembled mine had all the parts re plated, painted, and polished the handle. Turned out like new.

Dave

[CharlesTurner]

Pretty sure that the pin has to be removed on the shaft to get the ball-socket end of the cable out.  The reach of the shaft with the pin in place keeps there from being clearance to get the end out.  There's an access slot on the shaft housing to tap the pin out.

[NEFaurora]

Did this last night...Could not believe how easy it was... It took all of 1 minute...literally...

Nope, You do not have to remove the drift pin to get the ball and cable out.. Only the Wheel, and wheel center pin with ""hair" clip.  Once that is removed, All you have to do is goto the front of the unit where the handle is, and push up the metal "release" bar on the front bottom of the unit, right behind the handle, then it will allow you to push the handle and rod in flush all the way, thus releasing the Ball and cable.

Again, I could not believe how easy it was.  I was all setup for at least a 20min-1/2 hour project, and it only took 1 minute.. What a surprise..

Now the unit is out, and I can Clean/repaint the unit.  Voila!, and  Hooray!


Tony K

[Twilight65]

Here's the before and after of mine. This restoration I'm trying to remove and restore parts as I go. That way when I get the body done I just have to assemble.

Dave

[CharlesTurner]

Those big phillips screws were usually phosphate or maybe even plain steel.  They always seem to get surface rust over time.  Definitely were not black.

[carlite65]

were not those captured nuts zinc/cad plated ??

[CharlesTurner]

I've seen the captured nuts either in zinc or phosphate.

[Twilight65]

My original cage nuts and Phillips head screw where phosphate. When I sent a batch of hardware to the plater it was done in black zinc instead of the phosphate. Since the photo's I've put the correct hardware in.  That black zinc was like it had been painted semi gloss black.

Dave

[Ralf]

To get the handle off just drive the pin inward that is on the handle it self. Then you can just pull the handle off. Once the handle is off you can drive the pin out of the shaft so you can reuse it.

Dave

Just to pick this up.
I'm about to replace my handle.
How to get this pin inside the tube best way?
C clamp and a second pin to be placed on top of the handle pin?
I would avoid to disassemble the whole e-brake, but to do it right in the car.
Any pics/video would be appreciated.
Thx

[jwc66k]

Ralf,
Don't fight it, you have to remove the entire parking brake assembly from the dash. Once out, the accumulation of dust and other crud can be cleaned up, and the bracket repainted. I also had all the "shiny" parts (wheel, pins, screws, etc) plated dull zinc. Most likely, you will have to cut the old handle off where it grips the shaft to get access to the pin. A drift pin is the best way to remove the old one.
For installation, I set a folded shop towel under the handle for "ding" protection and drove the new pin in.
Jim