Topic: Worn Distributor Shaft / Bushing

[Angela]

I have never rebuilt a distributor, so please forgive my lack of knowledge.

I need a rebuilt distributor for 1970 428 application. Unfortunately, I am not wealthy...

So, I'd like to work with what I have until such time I can afford a more correct distributor for my car.

My car should have a D0ZF-C distributor.  What I actually have is one out of a 428 PI (I think it's a C9AF).

While the distributor does function, the shaft has considerable play, which I suspect is impacting the opening of the points.

How does one remove the shaft and replace the bushings in these distributors? Are bushings readily available?

Thanks.

[rockhouse66]

NPD sells the upper and lower bushings.  Your distributor probably only has an upper bushing.  If there is enough wear that you can push side to side on the shaft and see the points move then that is definitely worn out IMO.  I have seen a scored/damaged shaft be the cause of this but I believe that is the exception and bushing replacement will usually fix it.

[Angela]

Thanks Jim, I did not realize NPD had these bushings readily available.

Is it correct to state that a hydraulic press is required to remove/replace these bushings? If yes, then I am fairly concerned about damaging the distributor housing.

Alternatively, can anyone recommend a shop that rebuilds distributors, including bushing replacement? I had one rebuilt for my 390 many years ago, but I can't recall where I sent it. I am wondering if perhaps this is something Bill Upham does?

[67gtasanjose]

I have done the bushing replacement myself. A 1/8" rolled pin punch is required for removing the sprocket and the thrust plate, sometimes spray carb cleaner to dissolve gunk buildup and this usually gets the shaft removed. I use the vice as a fixture to tap the rolled pins out (gap the jaws about 3/6" and tap the pin into opening of the jaws).
Care has to be used for not peening the shaft or damaging the teeth of the sprocket while tapping it off. A spare oil pump shaft or the likes works in reaching to the base of the oil pump hex opening.
Once the sprocket and thrust plate are removed, clean any buildup of grime off the shaft (wire wheel and brake cleaner).

Getting the bushings out of the housing, get creative, you might think you have to get hold of them from reaching from the opposite ends but what I do is to thread them with a fine-threaded tap and screw a bolt into them and you should be able to figure it out from there.
Take note that the sprocket may fit only one way so devise a way to identify its orientation prior to removing it or simply spin it 180 degrees if the pin will not line back up. Always get the rolled pin punch to line up all the way through before trying to drive the pin back in.

[rockhouse66]

I bought a large brass drift/punch, spun it in my drill press and worked it with a file until the end was small enough to go inside the bushing and the OD was no larger than the bushing OD.  I don't have a lathe, which would be better.   Then I place the disassembled distributor housing upside down on a block of wood and heat the area around the bushing and punch it out with my drift and a hammer.  I know it sounds crude but the aluminum expands a lot and it doesn't take much to get the bushing out with some heat.  And yes, I do use a hydraulic press to install the new bushing.  I guess you could heat the housing and punch the new bushing in but I haven't done it that way.

[hopey]

The Ford shop Engine manual (the 1970 edition anyway) has the procedure for removal and installation of new distributor shaft bushings. It also shows the Ford tool for the job and describes the use of an arbor press.