Topic: Under Dash Wire Identification

[1970 Snake]

I can definitely confirm it is NOT the wire that goes to the heater resistor. That is a totally different part of the wiring harness and is much longer and this wire would not even come close to the heater. There are also another two wires green and blue with the same plugs which run across the top of the lower dash (see pic 801) that also do not connect to the heater, so I believe all of these heavy green wires, the ones at the heater switch and over the globe box are for the AC system, which my car does not have. It looks like I am going to have to temp assemble my main under dash harness and steering column and bench test the entire harness system with a battery and the key switch to find what I need. Thanks.

[krelboyne]

Then it goes to the micro switch on the controls.

[midlife]

I need a power source for my roll control switch and would assume this wire would supply that. There are two wires like this in that area the is another identical wire there with the same plug but it comes off the heater switch plug and assume it goes through the heater switch first, so is not a source unless the heater/AC is turned on. BTW I agree I do not like cutting wires, which is why this wire interest me as a fused source always on in the right location.

I have no idea what a roll control switch is (unless it is a roll-over fuel cut-off switch, which certainly isn't concours...), but on a 1970, your best bet is a fused ACC line running off of an optional 3 prong female plug tied into the slanting slot on the fuse box, which I refer to as the fuse buss extender.  The fuse is designed for 20 amps, and will always be hot when ACC or RUN (but not CRANK) position on the ignition.  There is no open RUN-only line in the passenger compartment for a 70 available to tap into without splicing wires.

[DougDyar]

I have no idea what a roll control switch is (unless it is a roll-over fuel cut-off switch, which certainly isn't concours...), but on a 1970, your best bet is a fused ACC line running off of an optional 3 prong female plug tied into the slanting slot on the fuse box, which I refer to as the fuse buss extender.  The fuse is designed for 20 amps, and will always be hot when ACC or RUN (but not CRANK) position on the ignition.  There is no open RUN-only line in the passenger compartment for a 70 available to tap into without splicing wires.

This buss is the brass thingy I was talking about in my previous post. This is your solution. Post a pic of your fuse block.

[1970 Snake]

Midlife, just to be clear, although I am building my car about 90% concours correct, I want to drive it once in a while and maybe a bit hard, so I am modifying it a bit like most guys did back in the day to their "brand new concours correct cars". To that end I am installing a roll control (front brake line lock), bigger tires on wide 15" magnum 500's, cross drilled and slotted front rotors, and headers with a custom SS mandrel bent 2.5" dual exhaust system which exits threw modified 1970 NOS Mach 1, chrome exhaust tips.

So I need/would like to locate a 12V power source for the line-lock switch which is located on the AT floor shifter and wanted to know if the green wire (which is handy and not being used) would have power to it when the key is on just like the AC system or heater, without having to splice wires. This was the reasoning for my original question because I did not know if the green wire had power once the car was started, just assumed it did, but wanted some clarification, instead of an assumption seeing the dash and steering column are not in the car yet, and I want to do any wiring mods before installing them.