Topic: Stamps -- Getting the biggest bang for your buck

[Bossbill]

Hallo Bill,
Do you also have a picture for a 67´"autolite" Starter Motor?
Mine is too far gone.. not even sure about the date code. Should be 7C1B!?!
Thanks, enno

7C1B is way too close to your build date.
My March car, we determined, would have a starter in Dec 66 time frame.
However, I have a SJ car and your Dearborn car might be closer to a starter vendor.

Might post this query in the starter thread (would look it up but I have to leave).
 

[Bossbill]

This might be the right thread for starter date ink information:
http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=14384.msg127026#msg127026

On another front I tried to cut the little itsy bitsy letters for the headlight logo and words and found that a.) you need a special needle in your vinyl cutter to pull that off b.) Even if I could pull that off I am not going to weed out the portions using a pair of 20x binoculars.

So I did some research and found  a process (shh, it's secret) that allows me to create a mask capable of media blasting in the correct logo for either TungSol or GE bulbs that I procured from other non-Ford cars.

[J_Speegle]

So I did some research and found  a process (shh, it's secret) that allows me to create a mask capable of media blasting in the correct logo for either TungSol or GE bulbs that I procured from other non-Ford cars.

Decades ago when my family did early Fords you could purchase with vinyl patterns or press a stamp into a playdough (s?)  like product pressed on glass to reproduce the markings on the windows or headlights. A very small sand blaster was used or an acid

[CharlesTurner]

So I did some research and found  a process (shh, it's secret) that allows me to create a mask capable of media blasting in the correct logo for either TungSol or GE bulbs that I procured from other non-Ford cars.

Headlights would have been etched with etching cream like side/rear/front glass on the cars.  The same style stencils are used.

[Bossbill]

The mask worked perfect on a non-original test lamp.

I agree an acid was probably used on the lamp line, but I used glass media at 40psi on this test subject. The media is very well used, hence a slightly higher pressure than recommended.

I think it worked great.
[This is the TungSol format].

[J_Speegle]

The mask worked perfect on a non-original test lamp.

Looks good

[91saleen26]

I am in the middle of performing a concourse restoration of a 91 saleen coupe. 1 of 4 coupes produced that year, and I am looking for someone to make stamps for me could you possibly send me in the right direction for a reputable vendor to make stamps for me if at all possible. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[J_Speegle]

I am in the middle of performing a concourse restoration of a 91 saleen coupe. 1 of 4 coupes produced that year, and I am looking for someone to make stamps for me could you possibly send me in the right direction for a reputable vendor to make stamps for me if at all possible. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

There are few vendors IMHO that will take the time to custom make exact copies of originals. Instead as mentioned in other threads they will substitute common "modern" fonts and hopefully get something close while others can just make something from a scan but there will be an hourly rate for the art work. Not sure how many of the US based shops are open and working. Hope my favorite makes it through this. Been thirty years working with them and I would not want to start again with others.  Also take note that some will also refuse to do anything that looks like it might be copy written or trade marked.

So we don't get off on a specific project (not the purpose of this thread) you can either post pictures and measurements in a new thread in the 91 section of the site. While I'm thinking of it. Have you contacted any of the other owners to see if they are interested in sharing the costs?

[Mike.Griese]

I am in need of some stamps for a '71 convertible - can you share who these shops are?

[Bossbill]

I use rubberstamps.com.

[Bob Gaines]

I use rubberstamps.com.

For clarification so others don't get the wrong idea,the rubber stamp shops mentioned are ones that make up the rubber stamps however you have to provide the art work to them to use to make the stamps up with.They do not have ready made stamps for different Mustang applications.

[J_Speegle]

I am in need of some stamps for a '71 convertible - can you share who these shops are?

PM sent  rather than expand into specific 71 details and such in this thread

[Bossbill]

I fear I make too many assumptions.
I've been involved with vinyl graphics for quite some time -- ever since I needed graphics for the race car and wanted to create my own. Vinyl graphics and stamps both require artwork -- either original or from a photograph.

Before I strip a part I look for ink stamps on the part. I photograph the part with a ruler or caliper, usually the later. If the calipers are a distance away I might pull out a pocket ruler.

After I have the photograph I bring it into a graphics program like Photoshop, Illustrator or a half a dozen other graphics programs. If you want to ratio things up from tiny to big you need to convert the graphics into vectors.
Some of these programs are very expensive (hundreds and hundreds) while some are free. Each requires a large amount of time invested to really get the most from them.

After you have pulled the image in to your program you need to either find a font that is close, create the font or turn a close font into a vector and move things around to suite. In the attached motor I found the month to be one font, day another and year yet another. The original stamp appeared to be a rubber band style where each rotating rubber number band was maybe made by a different program or vendor.
While constructing all of this remember that the stamp makers like 600 dpi images.

Making sure you have the right size you have to consider how the stamp will apply the number to the item. You might have to rotate the image some number of degrees in order for the stamp to be applied around a bushing or other obstruction.

As Jeff noted elsewhere, you can create your stamp in a long line and cut up the stamp (saving per stamp costs) or perhaps choose a square stamp and put different images on each side.

Then you need to send the 600 dpi image to the stamp maker including image size, height and width of stamp area, etc. A single small stamp is usually around $15.

When you ask for a "free" image from someone else you have to take into account the number of hours it takes to create each one. And that many parts are date coded which would require a change to the master.

[J_Speegle]

Doing a project this week and thought I would share some steps I use near the end of the process of developing a new stamp. Up front I would like to remind viewers that my focus in this process was one of three different patterns used during 71 and one of two colors used. So your original may differ from the one I was focusing on and the post is about the process rather than the specific product

- Often I need to let a design set for a couple of days and revisit it for a fresh look as its easy to miss little things that later will stand out

- If the stamp will be used on an item that is painted black I reverse the image  so that the stamp is now white or yellow (for example) in the print out

- After I've redrawn the stamp making sure (on multiple line stamps) the lower letters align with the upper line and all the details are as close as possible I take the design and lay it out on a sheet then create copies of the original but reduce and increase the size of the design in predetermined steps on the sheet. Numbering each so I can track each one since when printed the slight size difference is not easy to determine




- Next I print out the page, then cut out each step and apply it to an the area or item and eye ball it as well as take a few pictures.  From there I compare each to an original in a picture or with an original in hand to choose the best match.




Of course when used as a stamp we will get some expansion and smudging. Something we can not reproduce in this process so you have to account for those factors as you view and compare.


UPDATED: Here is a picture of the application of the stamp. Should have been more careful to keep it in line with the whole surface but I just wanted to get it done and make it quick. Also I let the stamp slide slightly to get that affect. Choose just to leave it as is rather than clean and redo - my car   Note - these were applied using yellow and white during 1971 not sure why the difference at this time.










Hope that by sharing others can benefit.