Author Topic: New whole floorpan repro vs. original floorpan differences  (Read 2426 times)

Offline wcampbell

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 53
New whole floorpan repro vs. original floorpan differences
« on: April 27, 2010, 06:12:14 PM »
I'm currently having the entire floorpan of my April '65 Fastback replaced(the work is in progress). Most of the original was toast so replacing the entire pan, given they make them now, made sense. Anyway, looking at the new floorpan when it arrived my bodyman noticed the drain holes are bigger than the original Fomoco and that there were a few raised areas that align with the '68 version. He also pointed out the lack of the '65 only emergency brake cable "humps" at the rear. He has fixed all of these things. I recently looked again at a pan at Carlisle and noticed no indentation for the backup light switch wiring. I know mine had one (undrilled) of course. Because we're attempting a concourse restoration, I want to make sure we get it "right" before paint, etc. Can anyone help point out or list the variations between the new/old pans and the changes needed to be correct? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Wayne
wandccampbell@hotmail.com

Offline cobrajetchris

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 335
Re: New whole floorpan repro vs. original floorpan differences
« Reply #1 on: April 27, 2010, 07:12:43 PM »
I replaced the floor pan on my 69 with a one piece floor and some of the stamping is different than the original like on the 69 there is no front drain plugs on the the original floor and the aftermarket one has them, there are different ribs in the floors from year to year. The other problem to watch out for is the floor I used was a little short side to side and you can stretch it enough to get the edges of the floor to the rockers however in doing that you end up chasing the problem to the transmission tunnel brace and rear floor hump and you end up with a gap because you have stretched the floor out. I had to split the floor is some areas to get it to lay down on the crossmember and be able to plug weld it. My suggestion on this is if your old floor is good at the flange at the rear of the rocker and wheelhouse, leave that in and lap the floor over between the rear frame rail and it will not be visible from the other side. This will solve most of the rear tunnel issues. The one piece floor is definitely better than the two piece one if you need all of that but it's not a drop in part like some of the vendors want to tell you. The floor is OK but typical aftermarket issues that you have to fight and the end result is good  if you work at it but will never be a original floor, unfortunately this is the only option for most cars in the rust belt. hope this helps..
CHRIS KNOBBE
69 MUSTANG COUPE, DEARBORN BUILT 06/10/69 OWNED SINCE 1978
70 BOSS 302 MUSTANG, DEARBORN BUILT 10/24/69 OWNED SINCE 1987
69 R CODE MACH1 AUTO, DEARBORN BUILT 10/10/68 OWNED SINCE 2006
69 R CODE MACH1 4 SPEED (factory black) SAN JOSE BUILT 12/30/68 OWNED SINCE 2007

Offline fastback66

  • Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 19
Re: New whole floorpan repro vs. original floorpan differences
« Reply #2 on: September 23, 2010, 02:43:47 PM »
Has anyone done one in a 66? What brand did you use and how cose did it look?

Offline MyRed66GT

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 102
Re: New whole floorpan repro vs. original floorpan differences
« Reply #3 on: November 20, 2010, 11:13:43 PM »
I put one in my 66 convertible. I believe it was a Dynacorn pan. The fit was actually pretty good. I had to make some minor mods up near the front of the trans tunnel and all the way back at the rear part of the pan (again trans tunnel). Other than the minor mods the pan actually fit very nice...tight to the frame rails, etc. Only thing I have to deal with now is removing the "humps" for the 65 style rear park brake cables.