Topic: Looking for pics and/or video of the mating of a I6 170-200cid block to 6cyl C4.

[NEFaurora]

Looking for some good pics and/or video of the mating of a I6 170-200cid block to a 6cyl C4 Transmission.

I'm doing a '65 I6 200 3 Speed to C4 conversion and have searched the Internet and to my shock, I can barely find anything about mating a 6 cyl. C4 Transmission to a I6 170-200 Block for reference..

It's pretty much self explanation, but would still like to see if I'm forgetting anything along the way.  It's been a good 25 years since I've done an I6 C4 tranny mating.. Also, I can't remember how I know whether the C4 input shaft is correctly seated... Is there a specified "Seated" depth?

Anyone have or know of any good I6 170-200cid block mating to an I6 C4 pics or videos?!?

Would be much appreciated... There is nada that I could find out on the web/internet...

I have probably 100 various pics of C4 Trannies, but not many as they are being mated up to the 6cyl. block..

If not, then I'll just "wing it".....but I figured that I'd ask first...

Much Thanks,

Tony K.

[6S280]

Tony, I just finished last year a 3 spd to C4 conversion that was started by someone else.  The car was drive-able but lots of detail needed to be added or corrected.  Is there something specific you are looking for or just general pics?

Roger

[NEFaurora]

Would like to see some pics of the 6cyl flywheel on the block from the engine side and maybe some pics of the two (Engine Block and Tranny) mating together.  I've got some pics... but looking for more, clearer ones.  I'm probably going to take a lot of pics of mine as I do the conversion as well as some video...for other future classic mustangers... The info on the web is non-existent and appalling... which is surprising in this day and age with a car model '65-'70 that is so popular. Maybe I'll create a blog about it..

)

Tony K.

[Bossbill]

I'm fairly certain 170-200s have a block plate, so it goes on first.
Next is the flex plate, a possible reinforcing ring (look to the MPC for details) and then the correct bolts.

The usual issues with mating involve the torque converter.
There are three things that need to seat.
The small splined input shaft, the large splined shaft and the front pump (the cutouts on the torque convertor).

Partially fill the convertor with ATF, lightly oil the front of the torque convertor shiny surfaces and then bring the convertor up to the input shaft area of the trans.
Grab the bullet nose of the convertor (the center protruding nose toward the engine) and lightly push the convertor toward the trans. Once the convertor is centered on the splines, spin the convertor while holding onto the bullet making sure the convertor doesn't wobble. Push gently toward the trans.
The converter usually makes a series of thunks as it engages the splines and pump.

If you measure the distance from the block to the flex plate where the convertor bolts up this should equal the distance from the front of the bell housing to the convertor area at the studs. It's usually around an inch or better back from the bell housing surface.

If your convertor has a drain plug find the area on the flex plate for the plug. I usually set the engine/flex plate at 6:00 o'clock for the plug and the same for the convertor.

Using a trans lift bring it into position making sure the convertor studs line up and make equally sure the drain plug (if fitted) lines up.

If the converter engages the flex plate at the studs before the bell housing has mated to the block, bring the trans back and try to re-seat the convertor.  Usually you have to bring the convertor towards the engine a bit to engage the nuts after the bell housing and engine block meet up.

Under no circumstances use the bell housing bolts to force engagement of ANYTHING!

You can use studs to help the bell align with the engine, but NEVER pull it into place or you will be buying a trans rebuild.

[6S280]

Here's some pics.  Let me know what else you'd like to see.  I spent a lot of time researching and finding missing parts as well as removing the rest of the 3 spd equipment.

[NEFaurora]

Looks pretty straightforward from what I remember.... I know that the blocking plate has to go on before the flywheel on the engine side.

I'm thinking that once the flywheel is on and the Torque converter is seated, That you just mate it up from there...

Would appreciate any other pics you have that you can post relating to the Tranny side or engine block side...not just for me, but for everyone's future reference..

Thanks!

)

Tony K.

[67gtasanjose]

Do not forget to remove the pilot bushing from the crankshaft. The torque converter sets back in two noticeable clicks and should be deep enough to clear the flex plate. From the mating surface of the bellhousing, it should be back almost an inch (estimated).

[NEFaurora]

Yeah, I'll be pulling the old 3 speed non-syncro 3.03 manual tranny probably tomorrow and also the "Z-Bar".   I'll take some pics and probably some video as well..  Then I have to "clean-up" the tunnel area a bit and also clean up the date coded 1965 C4 before I put it in... I will take some pics and video of that as well..  Thanks, I know how to seat the converter and also about removing the Pilot Bushing.

)

Tony K.