I used a metal yard stick laid just above the molding with it touching the paint on each end there was a 1/8 inward bow.
Thanks Marty. I interpret this to mean end-to-end of the deck lid, along the flat of the trunk lid above the body line where a molding may be mounted. It sounds like mine may have too much of a bow
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I have about 3/16" inwards bow. I was looking at other images I took of your car in Columbus a few years ago, yours and the red Convertible next to it, both with the trunks open and it looked like a bit of a bow but the shots were not at an angle for this purpose so I didn't want to just "straighten" mine unless it was supposed to be.
Right now the lid is dipped in rust dissolver working at this time to clean internal rust beneath the structure. I've already cleaned out the face-edge at the lower pinch weld. Both the drains in the deck lid were clogged with body sealant and apparently water accumulates in that pinch weld behind the molding when this happens. It was worse than it looked from the outside since there wasn't even any blister in the outside paint, only a small blister along the sealer edge but when I started removing the paint, it just kept showing up worse & worse! Once I realized how much worse it really was, I eventually, (very hesitantly), I opened up the pinch weld and cleaned all of the rust that way. What a pain is the arse! All welded back now and low finally moving into the body work on the deck lid next. LAST body panel to be stripped and prepped before final body work and paint.
It sure would be nice to afford PAYING somebody for this kind of work! I enjoy most of the process but this BODY WORK involving hidden rust issues is no fun at all! I don't know how those who have a full-on Rust-Tang do it! Mine wasn't anything near as bad as many projects I have seen people do and I absolutely abhor some of what I am going through!