Topic: 1967 FE Block C7ME-A 427 (Advice ID)

[bullitt68]

So as it turns out my block I was planning to use, the one that came with my car when I bought it is toast. The bores are out of round from a previous bore so my engine builder suggested using another block. He has what appears to be the same block with slightly different markings.  It is a C7ME-A casting date 7L9. My block had the standard 352 casting on the front as does this one but it also has 66-427 cast on the rear with a side oiler boss. My block was 8A17, so its one month difference. This block is also original bore and appears to be in great shape at first inspection

Any comments of anything I should be aware of before I bore this block and build it.

[RoyceP]

Looks like a typical 390 block. The 66-427 rear bulkhead pattern is meaningless, it shows up on 352's and 360's too. I would have it magged before proceeding.

[bullitt68]

Looks like a typical 390 block. The 66-427 rear bulkhead pattern is meaningless, it shows up on 352's and 360's too. I would have it magged before proceeding.

Thanks Royce. Yes that is the plan. I would have the block fully checked before proceeding. It is just as well as my block appears to have had some cracks repaired that were not revealed at first inspection.

So it appears that this block would be a suitable replacement for my previous block which did not have the VIN stamp. So I may actually be further ahead if this blocks passes the magna flux test

[1967 eight barrel]

I would go beyond a mag. Have it sonic checked and the crank saddles checked and align honed as well. I just had a 176 mile engine in my Shelby start putting coolant in the oil. I had to pull it and sleeve #6.  Sadly, core shift, corrosion or incompetent machinist can cause a myriad of issues.  It's no minor task to pull an FE with headers, especially post a 15K paint job.  Do NOT short cut anything. 
                                                                                                       -Keith

[RoyceP]

Yes good advice. Even 390's sometimes have very thin cylinder walls. You never know unless you know.

I would go beyond a mag. Have it sonic checked and the crank saddles checked and align honed as well. I just had a 176 mile engine in my Shelby start putting coolant in the oil. I had to pull it and sleeve #6.  Sadly, core shift, corrosion or incompetent machinist can cause a myriad of issues.  It's no minor task to pull an FE with headers, especially post a 15K paint job.  Do NOT short cut anything. 
                                                                                                       -Keith

[bullitt68]

I would go beyond a mag. Have it sonic checked and the crank saddles checked and align honed as well. I just had a 176 mile engine in my Shelby start putting coolant in the oil. I had to pull it and sleeve #6.  Sadly, core shift, corrosion or incompetent machinist can cause a myriad of issues.  It's no minor task to pull an FE with headers, especially post a 15K paint job.  Do NOT short cut anything. 
                                                                                                       -Keith

Thanks Keith I will make to to get it sonically tested

[bullitt68]

Yes good advice. Even 390's sometimes have very thin cylinder walls. You never know unless you know.

Agreed