Topic: Trunk seal. Any methods to get them to soften up?

[1967 eight barrel]

I replaced my trunk seal on my Shelby. It's been on for almost a year and it has yet to settle so that the spoiler lines up with the end caps. Has anyone used a heat gun or anything else to get the seal to settle to a point where it will allow the corners to line up?

[Bob Gaines]

I replaced my trunk seal on my Shelby. It's been on for almost a year and it has yet to settle so that the spoiler lines up with the end caps. Has anyone used a heat gun or anything else to get the seal to settle to a point where it will allow the corners to line up?

I use the Carpenter seals because they are softer similar to the Ford ones. Some of the hard repros never soften up .

[ruppstang]

Be sure also ask for the Carpenter made in USA there is a big difference. Here is a thread about it.
  http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=15404.0

[1967 eight barrel]

I used the carpenter seal based on Bob Gains recommendation. It was purchased a couple years ago. I don't know if that would make a difference.
Without the seal, the deck lid fits perfect.
                                                                                -Keith

[mtinkham]

Is the seal in contact with the entire trunk opening, or are there any voids where the seal is not being compressed....if so, maybe the seal could be carefully "relieved" with an exacto, where the interference is greatest?

Maybe "shapes" could be cut out of inconspicuous areas or on the backside of the seal to help it compress.

I had the same problem on a coupe trunk, but I was using a reproduction trunklid and seal. So I did not want to spend any more time trying to fight an up-hill-battle. I tweaked the lid and adjusted the latch so it closed without bouncing and sent the car on its way.

[J_Speegle]

Maybe "shapes" could be cut out of inconspicuous areas or on the backside of the seal to help it compress.

Since the fastback gasket/seal is designed differently don't know if there is any place to remove material without leaving a lumpy look to the final product unless less you could remove a narrow but fill width section of foam from the middle of the lower half for all approx 12 feet. Not sure how that would be done.

Basically its two thin strips of material joined on one side

[67350#1242]

Since you are asking about a 67 Shelby fiberglass trunk lid it cannot be assumed that the area where the seal is glued is perfectly flat or contoured as would be in the case of a metal lid. I would suggest removal of the seal and checking the area especially along the rear trunk lid mating surface for flatness.  It is well known these were not precision pieces. 
I had a similar problem with my 67 that was cured by sanding down the rear seal mounting surface to flatten and even it out.  There was a high spot near the center where the latch is located that wouldn't allow lid to mate well with the tail panel, making it impossible to adjust correctly.  Adjusting for closure without slamming the lid left either left or right side high and the lid could be rocked side to side and wouldn't line up with  end caps.
Remove seal and put a straight edge along the rear mounting surface to check.  Pretty easy to true up with narrow sanding block the width of the seal.  No need to repaint.  My lid now closes with a short drop and both end caps line up perfectly.
Kurt.