Topic: Which components should I phosphate on 66 Metuchen K-code

[evantugby]

Gents,
I just received a phosphate solution.  Now I need to determine which components to phosphate.  Which components/pieces/bolts/washers etc would have had a phosphate appearance?  I'm trying to determine a list: 

1.  Hood hinges &  springs
2.  fender star bolts. 
3.  idler arm
4.  strud rod washers (not the nuts--nuts were zinc silver finish)
5.  driveshaft ends and yoke
6.  pinion..??
7.  rear shock washers
8.  hood latch and hood latch bolts???
9.  manual steering box (3 long bolts)? 
10. fuel line clip is P & O (the one that mounts on the bracket on water pump)
11. hose clamps
12.
13.
14.



Afterward I will use boeshield oil on the components. 

Can anyone start me off with a list here?  Remember, my car is completely 100% disassembled right now so I want to get everything I can phosphated this weekend.  Looking forward to it!   

[J_Speegle]

Guess you want to do a list of all parts that could be phosphated (not originally phosphated in all cases) as a finish during a restoration.

Personally I don't phosphate steering components and if I understand many tumble the parts after plating to get them to the finish they are looking for. Guess you would experiment to find other methods to replicate the original finish with phosphate as a base. Be careful with items that have bushings and bearings since those can be damaged during the plating process.


This is going to take you a while as I would expect that your looking at maybe 100 individual items

A couple

- Firewall throttle bellcrank

- Heater cable end retainers

- Rear valance lower corner retainer studs

[evantugby]

Guess you want to do a list of all parts that could be phosphated (not originally phosphated in all cases) as a finish during a restoration.

Personally I don't phosphate steering components and if I understand many tumble the parts after plating to get them to the finish they are looking for. Guess you would experiment to find other methods to replicate the original finish with phosphate as a base. Be careful with items that have bushings and bearings since those can be damaged during the plating process.


This is going to take you a while as I would expect that your looking at maybe 100 individual items

A couple

- Firewall throttle bellcrank

- Heater cable end retainers

- Rear valance lower corner retainer studs

Hi Jeff,
I want to start consolidating a list here.  Does my list look pretty accurate so far before I add your three suggestions?  I'm doing my research here by checking past posts!

[J_Speegle]

Remember if you use too high of heat during the process and/or cool incorrectly you run the risk of damaging any springs so be forewarned

Would not plate the trans york or driveline ends

Shock tower supports? Not sure why those are on the list if they are painted black

Pinion ........ what? Yoke. Again would not plate that.

Are you really going to disassemble the whole steering box? Would not be my choice

Of course your going to get different opinions and not all of these are plate the part and installed them items. Plating can add more work to the process than other methods in some cases.

Steering box mounting bolts (as well as the two for the idler). Are you using magnesium or zinc phosphate.  Zinc may not get them dark enough to replicate heat treated cast steel

If your thinking of doing the idler  - you know there are a number of different finishes used on the completed assemble and there are items pressed on/into that were added after that parts were made.

[evantugby]

Remember if you use too high of heat during the process and/or cool incorrectly you run the risk of damaging any springs so be forewarned

Would not plate the trans york or driveline ends

Shock tower supports? Not sure why those are on the list if they are painted black

Pinion ........ what? Yoke. Again would not plate that.

Are you really going to disassemble the whole steering box? Would not be my choice

Of course your going to get different opinions and not all of these are plate the part and installed them items. Plating can add more work to the process than other methods in some cases.

Steering box mounting bolts (as well as the two for the idler). Are you using magnesium or zinc phosphate.  Zinc may not get them dark enough to replicate heat treated cast steel

If your thinking of doing the idler  - you know there are a number of different finishes used on the completed assemble and there are items pressed on/into that were added after that parts were made.

Someone on this site recommended phosphate an oil for my driveline ends and slip yoke. 

Shock towers coming off the list.  I added them with a question mark because someone mentioned he phosphated his but I think it was from a later car. 

My steering box has been rebuilt by Lares Corporation.  However my three mounting bolts are needing some attention.  Are those phosphate and oil? 

Copy on the idler arm.  Will need to research more. 

I am using manganese parkerizing / phosphating concentrate Charcoal from Palmetto ENterprises

[CharlesTurner]

I've done 'quick' dunks on suspension and drive-line parts that were originally a slightly darkened appearance.  I'll dunk them for maybe 10-15s, dry them off and then rub out with some steel wool and oil.  If you look at my blog for the K convertible restoration, the steering box was done that way, along with a few other pieces like motor mounts.  Just another way to achieve the correct appearance.  Agree with Jeff that those parts should not be a fully coated in phosphate.

I've had mixed results with phosphate and then tumbling, could be that my tumbling media is larger angle cut ceramic.