Topic: Original two piece disc brake rotors - how do you take apart

[Morsel]

Thanks guys for the help, I don't think it will change it much, just was checking mainly to see if people had done this, don't think I'll have to shave much off to get it smooth, just really wanted a clean mating surface for the wheel to sit against... definitely will not have to do anything to the back side of the hub and the mating surface there, that looks really clean and good.

Jason

[67gtasanjose]

Just keep in mind that the original hub & rotor were balanced AFTER they were assembled so mark your (original) rotors as to align it to the same hole in the hub. This mark can be hidden under the stud.

Most are Century Brand or other aftermarket replacements and differ a bit from original rotors. There is another thread discussing those differences.

[Morsel]

Just keep in mind that the original hub & rotor were balanced AFTER they were assembled so mark your (original) rotors as to align it to the same hole in the hub. This mark can be hidden under the stud.

Most are Century Brand or other aftermarket replacements and differ a bit from original rotors. There is another thread discussing those differences.

Yep, these are original Kelsey Hayes and I plan on re-using everything, just cleaning them up and restoring them. Also thanks for the reminder on aligning original placement, they've been completely documented on orientation prior to removing the studs, so I will be able to put them back together exactly as they were for that exact reason of balancing...

Thanks,

Jason

[Bossbill]

Back in the last century they used to offer brake drums separate from hubs. In order to separate the two required a cutter that removed the swaging from the stud.
After you received a new drum you put in new studs and then re-swaged the new studs.
This required two special tools.

See this google book chapter on swaging:
https://books.google.com/books?id=mNIhYSCBfmUC&lpg=PA182&ots=EgTXACUYIF&dq=brake%20drum%20swadging&pg=PA182#v=onepage&q=brake%20drum%20swadging&f=false

The K/H disc brake assembly also has this swaging.
Even pressing out the stud is technically incorrect as the sage enlarges the hole in the hub if it's not cut out first.

The saving grace is that new studs usually work well enough and the clamping loads of the "bolt up" hold the whole thing together.

Just offering this as a history lesson, since I haven't seen a cutter or re-swager in decades.

[67gtasanjose]

The K/H disc brake assembly also has this swaging.
Even pressing out the stud is technically incorrect as the sage enlarges the hole in the hub if it's not cut out first.

I'm not sure I agree with this statement on the K/H rotor/hub assembly. I am looking at an original example from my 67 that has the "K/H" marking on the button-end of the wheel stud that has absolutely no sign of ever having been "swagged". This rotor/hub has been on this 67 from day-1 of my owning it since '78. The other side I took apart last year and it was also on the car when bought in '78, also with the "K/H" marked studs without any sign of "swagging" on the studs.

I also have on hand a "CENTURY" branded service replacement that does not have the "swagging".

I would like to hear more about this (your claim) since I only have a few examples on hand to use to determine what would typically be "concours" on any K/H original hub/rotors. Hoping to learn more

[Bob Gaines]

Fortunately the Ford assemblyline originals, Ford service replacement and the aftermarket Wagner and Raybestos 2 piece rotors pairs that I have on hand  do not have the swagged studs. That swagged stud would make it more difficult in any replacement or restoration scenario unless you had the special tools.   

[Morsel]

Yep, my original untouched Kelsey Hayes rotors didn't have them either...

[krelboyne]

Pretty sure that this is an original 1967 Disc brake rotor. I am showing the KH wheel stud with an 'F' marking for rotors. Does this jibe with all of your findings?

[67350#1242]

It is a good idea to have  lug nuts torqued down onto the studs while you are doing the final trueing up of the rotors.  This will ensure the hub is tight to the rotor and similates actual wheel being bolted up.