Author Topic: Upper Control Arm Shaft rebuild  (Read 1094 times)

Offline evantugby

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Upper Control Arm Shaft rebuild
« on: April 28, 2020, 10:44:58 AM »
Gents,
Can a Upper Control Arm shaft be rebuilt?  I am trying to understand what part is wearing out on original 65-66 shafts, other than the o-ring.  I previously read that when the shaft is attached to the UCA there shouldn't be any easy movement of the shaft up and down without some force.  I would like to rebuild originals instead of buying aftermarket.

Thanks! 

1966 GT, 6T09K13, Born 23 Oct 1965

There is no statue of equality in liberty harbor, there is a statue of liberty.  We are different this way.  -CK

Offline 67gtasanjose

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Re: Upper Control Arm Shaft rebuild
« Reply #1 on: April 28, 2020, 10:55:35 AM »
The shaft and the end caps are a steel-to-steel friction point within a machined "worm-shaped" machining. I know of no way to put back worn down steel without welding but more likely the impossible feat would be to machine those welds back down to an unknown factory spec.

Good luck! I kept my originals in case somebody figures this one out! (replacements are not exact)
Richard Urch

1967 (11/2/66, S.J.) GTA Luxury Coupe, 289-4V w/Thermactor Emissions, C-4, Int./Ext. Decor +many options

2005 (04/05) GT Premium Convertible, Windveil Blue, Parchment Top w/Med. Parchment interior,  Roush Body Appointments

Online CharlesTurner

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Re: Upper Control Arm Shaft rebuild
« Reply #2 on: April 28, 2020, 10:59:09 AM »
NOS ones come up for sale from time to time, going by memory, they are C3DZ or C4DZ part numbers. 
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Offline bryancobb

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Re: Upper Control Arm Shaft rebuild
« Reply #3 on: November 14, 2020, 08:33:47 AM »
A better understanding of how UCA's and shafts are assembled and work would help everyone...INCLUDING ME!  Here's the facts that I know and herein lies my confusion.  Hex end-caps have internal and external threads.  The external ones appear to be much finer pitch.  The bare UCA has internal fine threads that the end-caps screw into.  If I remember right, the end-caps cannot screw all the way in until two flat surfaces touch.  I think I remember that the threads peter-out before that.  Beginnings and endings of threads are not precise so when the end-cap external threads start getting shallower, you just can't tighten it any farther.  That does not establish an exact finished location.???

Now here's what REALLY confuses me.  The coarse internal threads of the end-cap must screw onto the shaft threads at the same time it is screwing into the fine internal threads of the bare UCA.  I don't understand how this can be done.  Then ...when both end caps are screwed into the UCA as far as they will go, and the shaft is captive between them, the shaft will be locked in a bind unless you loosen one or both end-caps slightly so the shaft can rotate in the coarse internal threads with the least amount of twisting force.

The way I understand the assembly, after it's COMPLETELY assembled, you can rotate the shaft about 3 or 4 total full turns from CW to CCW with your bare hand (or a little more).

Now here's what REALLY REALLY REALLY confuses me.  Three or four turns from stop-to-stop means that the entire UCA moves forward and aft, on the car, as the suspension does its job on the road.  From memory, the coarse threads are about 0.100" per revolution.  I estimate full suspension travel of the UCA to be 15 degrees.
That would mean that the fore/aft movement of the UCA would slightly change the caster as you drive and the suspension does its job.  Not much, but it does change.

I STILL don't totally see how to assemble it though.  Any insight??
66 Metuch Conv
Nightmist, Std Blu Int
6T08C223904    76A       K         22       15c     21      6        6
                      BODY  COLOR   TRIM    DATE   DSO   AXLE  XMSN
   C/O  785                                   (rotation #)
   16    C14   6T08C223904        (weld bay 16, bucked MAR 14)