Topic: Fastback driprail mouldings won't snap back on post paint...

[1967 eight barrel]

I am trying to re-install my factory drip rail moldings, which I had polished. The vehicle was painted and I was wondering if someone else ran into this issue post paint and had to sand down the thickness a bit, or figured out the remedy to get them on before I wind up putting dents in them..

[Oz390]

Yep, on the last three 68 coups I did the paint had to be sanded down on the drip lip to get them on. 

Believe the modern primer-hifill-paint process commonly used (let alone multiple coats of color then more of clear in some cases) ends up being far thicker than the original squirt-of-color and on this tight tolerance part the difference shows on installation....

[1967 eight barrel]

Hello,
So what portion did you sand? The face, the top edge?

                                                                         -Keith

[Oz390]

The drip rail.  Removed the paint from the upper and lower edges (lower exposed "corner") and the out facing surface.  Sand, try to fit, sand some more, repeat until it clipped on with "minor" effort...

[1967 eight barrel]

Always frightening to think about sanding on new paint, but I can't get them on. That leaves me no option but to remove some of the finish.

                                                                                                     -Keith

[67gtasanjose]

Always frightening to think about sanding on new paint, but I can't get them on. That leaves me no option but to remove some of the finish.

                                                                                                     -Keith

I'll keep this in mind when shooting my car...Maybe a single pass of color over the lower side of the drip rails plus a single pass of clear...Now my example is a bit different. I have a vinyl roof coupe so there is only about 1 inch strip of body color that shows between the weatherstrip channel and the drip rail stainless molding. Still, it uses a molding snapped on like a fastback. I do not wish to have this same issue. Factory body color application didn't even extend onto the roof panel, up under the vinyl roof originally. They were being cheap I suppose. I'll be shooting some color up there anyways (OH NO! THAT'S NOT CONCOURS!)

[1967 eight barrel]

I talked to Rich at Mustangs to Fear. He said that he doesn't paint the face at all. He said more often than not when you have two or three base coats and two or three clear coats, it's just too thick to get the mouldings on.

                                                                                           -Keith

[drummingrocks]

I ran into this as well on my '69 Mach 1.  It can be almost impossible to snap the moldings on if the driprail has a few coats of primer/paint/clear.  I started to sand down my driprails when I encountered this issue, but I was afraid of breaking through to bare metal.  Ideally, the thing to do would be to leave them in bare metal, with just a light coat of epoxy or something on the driprails for protection.

[67gta289]

In addition to taking care not to cover the drip rails, also consider all of the edges (doors, fenders, etc.), cowl vents, all of the holes (door latch, key locks, antenna) so that they are "thin" for lack of a better word.

As my painter has taught me, in this case, less is more.  Less material is more better, more factory.  Less chance of cracks and pops when something is installed and tightened down.

[1967 eight barrel]

Why am I dreading doing this!?

                                  -Keith

[Oz390]

Don't know, takes 5 minutes with a piece of sandpaper... just be sure not to hit the roof.. its really a easy item. 

Just look at it like installing a J-nut, nice new paint and you clip them in and sssscccccrrraaaappppppppeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee... there goes the nice new finish.

Its all hidden anyway.  Once they clip on you'll forget all about the fact there is no paint under them.  I sanded and left primer, but if you cut thru you can touch up the lip with a rattle can (mask the entire car with a sheet or other cover, the overspray goes everywhere...) if you are concerned about leaving bare metal.

[1967 eight barrel]

I have mastered the J-nut installation. I had to do several on the dash and of course on the fender aprons. I put a small ding in the original drip rail moldings that I had polished. I was going to buy new repros, but everyone warned me about them, and the originals were in good shape, just in need of polishing.
P.S. I know they are stainless, but a magnet will stick to them big time!

                                                                                                        -Keith

[preaction]

Keith, if you don't sand it down you are going to dent the trim I am doing this at this time too and sanding to bare metal for me is better that the cost of a third set of drip moldings and the polishing too. I will send you pics if you need.

[1967 eight barrel]

Thanks, I got the driver side on today. I think I already bent the bottom rear edge, I may have to find another left if I can't get it snapped over. There are two color coats, and four clear. You can understand why it wouldn't snap down. Thanks for offering the pictures. Often they are needed to get them on correctly.

                                                                                                                    -Keith