Topic: '67 heater valve(on a/c car)

[socalgt]

I'm looking for an original heater valve that still has the "gold cad" color plating.  So far, I've found ones that have very little or no plating left.  If I found one that needed replating, can it be replated without ruining the seals, etc. inside it?  I assume it can't be dismantle it for plating and have it look original after I put it back together. ( I think the parts are crimped together, which I couldn't duplicate)

[Bob Gaines]

I'm looking for an original heater valve that still has the "gold cad" color plating.  So far, I've found ones that have very little or no plating left.  If I found one that needed replating, can it be replated without ruining the seals, etc. inside it?  I assume it can't be dismantle it for plating and have it look original after I put it back together. ( I think the parts are crimped together, which I couldn't duplicate)

First off it is not "gold cad" plating.  The bracket and the diaphragm portion is zinc Dichromate . Gold Cad is a different process and is a different look. The  valve portion is a industrial polished brass. The bracket is not a issue to replate as long as it is no pitted and the section that bolts to the valve is not badly corroded.  The tricky part is the diaphragm/valve portion. The brass valve can be masked off and steel diaphragm plated zinc dichromate to appear as new if done by a informed plater . The restoration process is not worth while IMO unless the diaphragm still holds vacuum and the valve opens and closes. Not much that is serviceable with the valve except a "O" ring that seals the valve to the bracket. The finished product will depend on how nice the core unit is to begin with. Restored units typically sell for 250.00 or so . NOS units are more . It is basically several hours labor start to finish and of course the plating is the tricky part. I get 150.00 to restore a good core when I do them if you don't want to mess with the DIY learning curve . Of course there are less expensive replacement part alternatives but they don't look assemblyline.

[J_Speegle]

One such control valve

Ignore the arrow. Was originally posted and highlighted for another discussion
Just what I had fast and handy

[socalgt]

Thanks for the info....I'll just wait until I come across one with enough of the original finish to look decent.

[Bob Gaines]

Thanks for the info....I'll just wait until I come across one with enough of the original finish to look decent.

No worries ,I didn't think you would want the expense when I started to post but thought that you and others reading would benefit from a clearer understanding of how the part was originally finished as well as the restoration process involved . FYI nice restorable working cores typically sell for 100.00 + . Best of luck on your search. 

[67gta289]

Not much that is serviceable with the valve except a "O" ring that seals the valve to the bracket.

Dragging this up since I could not find the answer.  Any idea where I can source the "O" ring for this?  Mine is fresh back from plating and I want to put it together. 

The dimensions are ID ~11/16" and OD ~13/16" based on measuring the groove in the brass.  According to the 1969 Ford fastener list that would be part number 87018-S91

It is not listed in the fastener spreadsheet, probably because it is part of an assembly and not serviced or shown on any drawings.

Thanks, John

[Bob Gaines]

Dragging this up since I could not find the answer.  Any idea where I can source the "O" ring for this?  Mine is fresh back from plating and I want to put it together. 

The dimensions are ID ~11/16" and OD ~13/16" based on measuring the groove in the brass.  According to the 1969 Ford fastener list that would be part number 87018-S91

It is not listed in the fastener spreadsheet, probably because it is part of an assembly and not serviced or shown on any drawings.

Thanks, John

I think I have always been able to source the o ring at the hardware store (the ones with the yellow servalite boxes) . FYI you probably already know this but the brass base portion of the valve is typically not zinc dichromate from the factory. Typically just the upper crimped on vacuum diaphragm .  I have to carefully wrap the base with insulating tape so that it doesn't plate . It is easier to plate the entire unit. Most people will not notice.

[jwc66k]

Dragging this up since I could not find the answer.  Any idea where I can source the "O" ring for this?  Mine is fresh back from plating and I want to put it together. 
The dimensions are ID ~11/16" and OD ~13/16" based on measuring the groove in the brass.  According to the 1969 Ford fastener list that would be part number 87018-S91

John,
Try Home Depot or Lowe's plumbing departments. One of the local hardware store (Orchard Supply Hardware) had a peg board display with a bunch of O-rings but the guy in that department said their supplier was cutting back in stocking them, no reason given.
Also Grainger, but you may have to buy 100.

It is not listed in the fastener spreadsheet, probably because it is part of an assembly and not serviced or shown on any drawings.

You are probably correct. I started with the Osborn Assembly Ddrawings and have attempted to incorporate the service parts but many items are serviced as a complete assembly, no breakdown, or not serviced at all.
Jim

[preaction]

Bob, you mentioned the brass portion being polished is this appearance that is expected ?

[Bob Gaines]

Bob, you mentioned the brass portion being polished is this appearance that is expected ?

Yes the brass is shiny but not too shiny. The brass portion was chemically polished. That is a different look compared to polishing the brass with a buffing wheel . If you go to the hardware store and look at new brass fittings that is the approximate level of shine . It is not the mirror shine that you get with a buffing wheel. Sometimes you can polish it with metal polish and then after dull it down with a acid wash product like wire wheel cleaner. You should experiment and practice on a sacrifice part first if you have never done it before. The time the chemical is left on is dependent on product used and it varies.

[Bob Gaines]

I would post a picture but I don't have any restored ones at the moment and I am getting a car ready for a show so i don't have extra time to stop and do one for a sample.

[krelboyne]

The common, round O ring size is 115.

I think that they originally had square O rings? That is what I found after getting it apart. Sourcing them may be a problem.

I got the machine screws out by using a heat gun to heat up the screws, I still broke one though.
Put the valve assembly through the glass bead blaster to clean the screw threads, that stick through the brass base of the valve. Do not think that the screw would have broken if I had cleaned them first. Penetrating oil or lube too helped.