Topic: Hood Hinge Spacers???

[mtinkham]

I have done a search on hood hinges and installation could not find an answer.  I am installing a used hood on a 67 that has had the fender aprons replaced.  With the fenders off of the car, the hood is slightly off center left-to-right at the cowl by approximately 1/8".  All other measurements to the cowl look good.  My question is: were spacers ever used between the aprons and the hood hinges?  If not, should I attempt to get the hood better centered or can I rely on the four (4) rubber fender bumpers to center the hood?  Thank you for your guidance.  Mark.

[J_Speegle]

I've never seen spacers used on 67-8's from the factory used in those locations

Sounds like the replacing of the inner fenders has produced or at least contributed to this problem. Since its only 1/* you might be able to increase one since of the openings in the hood hinge (where it bolts to the hood) (washer should cover the slight relief). This is after assuming that you have already moved the clip on the hood as far left or right as it will go in the slot

[mtinkham]

Thanks Jeff.

[WT8095]

Here's some discussion of how "fine tuning" was done on the assembly line:

http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=11047.msg68134#msg68134

    

[67gtasanjose]

Was the cowl replaced? Just the inner fenders? Were they reproduction parts or NOS?

I'm hoping everything isn't already painted yet, but if it is, as Jeff mentioned, an 1/8" isn't a whole lot.

It has been my experience that such details ought to be fit into place as a test-run using a few sheet metal screws to secure the panels temporarily, before finish welding and most importantly, PRIOR TO PAINT.  This can save a lot of grief damaging the finishes on any of the panels. I think we take forgranted at times things will fit correctly because they went in so easily, especially if we buy NOS replacement parts.

If hogging out the hole sounds like a bad idea, then another option if you haven't painted the aprons yet would be to remove the hinge from the inner fender on the problem side, take a 2x4 and a heavy hammer and tamp the inner fender in about 3/16"-1/4" if possible, but at minimum the 1/8" you need. I don't mean to say "cave it in", I mean to say gently adjust it like the aforementioned thread shows pictures of. Personally, I would have wanted a test-fit of the hood prior to welding anything in.

Reproduction sheet metal will give you "fits" with fitment...nothing new.

[GT500KR]

Try this.
  Make sure the hood latch is removed before adjusting the hood.
  Loosen the rear hood to hinge bolts, leaving the fronts just snug enough that it won't move. Then, with the hood open about 6 inches at the front, apply pressure with the palm of your hands in the direction you want it to move, pushing near the hinges. A few short pops should have it where you want it . Push a little harder if necessary, things should "flex" enough to get the eighth of an inch you need. These are typical body shop / dealership techniques, hope it helps.

[mtinkham]

Thank you all....I am in the test fitting stage....so no paint or primer.  Again thank you for all the help.

[jwc66k]

The assembly line used a rubber mallet to "fine tune" the hood adjustment to the right or left. Then they tightened the screws. I got this tidbit from a San Jose plant worker.
Jim

[mtinkham]

Can you imagine having a time machine and going to the plant of your choice with a video camera?  Then again, if your time machine was designed correctly, you could simply go to a dealership, make a purchase and come back with a concours trailer queen....or would you even come back?   I digress.....back to the rust.