Topic: correct installation of rivets in control arms

[Chris]

Reviving this thread as I'm about to purchase some NOS control arms for my 64 1/2 convertible and want to make sure they are correct. Here are a couple of pictures of "NOS" service replacement lower and upper control arms for sale at John's Mustang.

I noticed that the Ford Service part for the lower control arm lacked a number of features on factory original lower arms, such as the black/gray two-tone paint, waffle pattern rivets, and engineering number on the boots. The jack tabs are there but the rivets are smooth and no numbers on the boots.

The upper control arm has the correct waffle rivets but one paint color and no engineering numbers on the boots.

Can anyone list the correct features for factory original control arms and correct engineering number on the boots for 641/2 cars? I have 1) jack tabs, 2) two-tone paint, 3) waffle style rivets, boots with engineering number.

[Bob Gaines]

Reviving this thread as I'm about to purchase some NOS control arms for my 64 1/2 convertible and want to make sure they are correct. Here are a couple of pictures of "NOS" service replacement lower and upper control arms for sale at John's Mustang.

I noticed that the Ford Service part for the lower control arm lacked a number of features on factory original lower arms, such as the black/gray two-tone paint, waffle pattern rivets, and engineering number on the boots. The jack tabs are there but the rivets are smooth and no numbers on the boots.

The upper control arm has the correct waffle rivets but one paint color and no engineering numbers on the boots.

Can anyone list the correct features for factory original control arms and correct engineering number on the boots for 641/2 cars? I have 1) jack tabs, 2) two-tone paint, 3) waffle style rivets, boots with engineering number.

You can't tell what kind of boot you have unless you take the cover off that is under the nut. you can strip the plating and re dip the uppers and lowers for more correct appearance but the boots on the later service a distinct different design compared to originals or even the repros available.

[Anghelrestorations]

It looks to me like both the upper and the lower control arms would need to be taken apart detailed and put together with correct boots (assuming these are not correct) and the correct style rivets.  Otherwise its a little hard to tell from the photos.

[DM_1964]

I have a question on the dipping process on the lower control arms, I see some that are dipped evenly and others dipped on an angle (like the pics on the first page of this thread), I assume both are correct but which aplly at which plants?
I always thought they should be dipped evenly like the uppers as I have never seen any uppers dipped on an angle.
I'd like to know which type of finish would be correct for an early 64 1/2...

[J_Speegle]

I have a question on the dipping process on the lower control arms, I see some that are dipped evenly and others dipped on an angle (like the pics on the first page of this thread), I assume both are correct but which aplly at which plants?....

Its not a car plant detail since these were painted by the sub contractor who supplied them to Ford. The depth and angle is a result of the level of paint in the vat and how the item was hung on the hook. Uppers can be found at a slight angle while IMO lowers sometimes had a greater angle.

Depth IMHO is more important than getting the dip like exactly straight

[outlawincorporated]

DOM.

also something to keep in mind, not all upper control arms where dipped some where left bare metal. my observations are from 66 Dearborn only examples to date. but believe NJ assembly plant may have also used bare uppers at some stage through the 66 production year as well.  presently Im  slowly cleaning 2 sets of original upper and lowers from unrestored cars and from the early findings uppers are bare and lowers are half/half,

SJ assembly plant IMHO constantly seem to be half/half when I look at unrestored cars from that plant, though I do have a all black set of original lowers that came off a July 65 car. problem with that was I could not with 100% certainty say they where original to that particular car

regards.

PHILL BERESFORD.
MELBOURNE.
AUSTRALIA.

[J_Speegle]

John - pictures and links aren't working for me

[DM_1964]

...The depth and angle is a result of the level of paint in the vat and how the item was hung on the hook. Uppers can be found at a slight angle while IMO lowers sometimes had a greater angle.

Depth IMHO is more important than getting the dip like exactly straight

Jeff, in relation to your comments, here are my lowers...
They're a little less dipped (about half inch less) and dipped at more of an angle compared to the pics on the first page of this post.

also something to keep in mind, not all upper control arms where dipped some where left bare metal. my observations are from 66 Dearborn only examples to date. but believe NJ assembly plant may have also used bare uppers at some stage through the 66 production year as well.  presently Im  slowly cleaning 2 sets of original upper and lowers from unrestored cars and from the early findings uppers are bare and lowers are half/half,

Thanks for your input Phill, I'm just not sure what's correct for early 64 Dearborn cars, the ones off my car showed no signs of paint, but I can't even be sure they're original, maybe the arm but upper and lower ball joints had definitely been replaced...

[CharlesTurner]

For 64.5-65 and probably a good amount of '66, should expect uppers to be black dipped.

The lowers typically have the black up to around the strut rod holes.  There is no need to create a wide angle dip line, most originals I have seen were relatively straight.  Obviously you don't want it to be a laser perfect line.

[DM_1964]

The lowers typically have the black up to around the strut rod holes.  There is no need to create a wide angle dip line, most originals I have seen were relatively straight.  Obviously you don't want it to be a laser perfect line.

Thanks Charles, that clarifies it and it was what I was expecting, any tips to refinishing them properly as I'm thinking if I redip them you see the existing dip line. I'm suspecting taking as much paint off before re dipping them.

[CharlesTurner]

If you don't have a bucket of paint, probably best to tape a line and paint them.  There is info on the web on how to dip with suspending paint on top of water.  I tried it once with mixed results.

[jwc66k]

The upper "A Arm" painting is discussed here - http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=3704.msg20096#msg20096
Jim