ConcoursMustang Forums
1st Generation 1964 1/2 - 1973 - Questions & general discussions that apply to a specific year => 1966 Mustang => Topic started by: 66GTCoupe on April 26, 2011, 12:10:37 AM
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Help, I can't seem to find out were the negative battery cable attaches to on my six coupe. any help would be appreciated.
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When and where was it built? In case it makes a difference ;)
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On my Dearborn 66 vert ,it goes to a stud on the engine block below the alternator.
Dave
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its a dec 65 dearborn convertible. thanks so far for the info any pictures? of what the stud looks like?
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Here's a pic at the block.
Dave
(http://i664.photobucket.com/albums/vv8/dkcain1/SDC10126.jpg)
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While we are on the subject, Anyone know if the special stud/nut/bolt is reproed?
Luckily I still have my original, but would like a spare..
Tony K.
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Here's a picture of the actual stud off my 66. 1 9/16" long, 3/8-16 block side, 7/16-14 connection side.
Dave
(http://i664.photobucket.com/albums/vv8/dkcain1/engineblockgroundstud.jpg)
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thanks, that helped me out alot, now I just have to get one made
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thanks, that helped me out alot, now I just have to get one made
Did you end up making one? I am curious because I am starting to look into getting one made. I would need a few more dimensions on the length of the threaded sections.
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Also a bit off subject but the black clamp that holds the cooler lines together below that? where can I get one of those. I have many parts engines and that ground bolt and clamps are missin off everyone . Also the clamp that holds the lines together on the pass side where it straps on the valve cover.
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Here's a picture of the actual stud off my 66. 1 9/16" long, 3/8-16 block side, 7/16-14 connection side.
Dave
(http://i664.photobucket.com/albums/vv8/dkcain1/engineblockgroundstud.jpg)
This is one of those poorly documented (from a restoration standpoint) areas. It involved three different Ford engineering groups, engine, automatic transmission and electrical, and they didn't communicate well.
The stud is not shown in any of the Mustang Assembly Manuals but is shown in the Ford Car Parts Illustration Section A71, page 6, as part number 380818-S, and it is indicated as "not serviced". The part number is not in the AMK Products Guide to Ford Fasteners, nor in either Ford Standard and Utility Parts Catalogs, and no photo or drawing for this type of stud is shown. The dimensions I have are 7/16-14X1/2, 3/8-16X3/4, 1 5/8 oa length.
From what I've determined, the stud may or may not have been used on the 170CID I-6, all that is shown is an existing stud (see E4-8125-1, 64 Electrical Manual) for the battery ground, with or without an AT.
For 65 thru 68 200CID I-6 engines with automatic transmissions, it was used per Illustration Section A71, page 6.
For 66 thru 68 289CID V-8 engines with automatic transmissions, it was used per Illustration Section A71, page 6. It was not used in 1965 on 289CID V-8 engines with AT's, at least on my May build San Jose or on a January San Jose build.
This stud is different from 380818-S in that it is threaded 7/16-14 on each end which is what I've found on my two 66 Mustangs and a couple of others with 289CID V-8 engines. The V-8 battery cable has a 7/16 dia lug.
I have a couple of the 7/16-14 - 3/8-16 I-6 studs (the one shown, thanks Dave) available already clear zinc plated with the appropriate two washers and nut. Send me a p/m if you are interested.
Jim
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Here's a picture of the bolt and bracket I picked up on Ebay two weeks ago. It was advertised as a "transmission line bracket support grounding".
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Just finishing my '65 San Jose coupe. Here is what I found. Negative cable went straight to stud on the top of a head bolt. Alternator ground went to block with the clip for the trans cooling lines. Just found my clip so I will put that on this afternoon. Here are some good pics of all. Hope this helps.
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It looks like the 200CID I-6 in 1965 used a 3/8-16 stud on, near or part of the RH front head bolt (again, not well defined) per E5-8126-1. There is no listing in the I-6 engine section (Sec 60.2 pg 6, part group 6065) for a special head bolt with a stud so apparently it was not serviced. A dealer "fix" required the ground cable to be hooked up to the 3/8-16 bolt/stud on the RH side of the block which was the 66 and on method.
Jim
(I'm glad I had only V-8 Mustangs - not gloat, just glad.)
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Jim, I sent you a PM.
What about the clip, seems I recall seeing that reproduced somewhere or am I imagining things?
I thought restoring a I6 was going to be easier then a V8 but I am finding out there are a lot of difficult to find pieces. I saw on another forum that Scott Drake may be reproducing the valve cover clip so maybe some pieces will be easier to find.
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Here's another problem that I have encountered. I ordered the Scott Drake-concours correct battery wire set and the black cable that I received is way too long for my Jan. '65 200 6. The original ground location was at the top of the head bolt as in Greg's photo.
The engineering number and wire length of the Scott Drake part are both different from my factory original wire. After speaking with someone at Scott Drake they didn't seem too interested in what I had to say. Has anyone found a correct wire for this application?
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Your going to have to open up the crimped end very carefully and cut to length and recrimp
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Hi Nate-
True about the cutting and crimping, but the bigger problem is the wrong numbers on the wire! >:(
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to get a stencil made shouldn't cost that much any local sign shop should be able to make the stencil and then use some paint to apply done that befor or just call alloy metal products in new york who makes the battery cables and have them make you one to length with no numbers on it. that could be better have gone that way before (315) 676-2405
nate
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good idea--I'll see how that works out-thanks for the insight. ;)