ConcoursMustang Forums
1st Generation 1964 1/2 - 1973 - Questions & general discussions that apply to a specific year => 1964 1/2 - 1965 => Topic started by: mikelj5S230 on March 11, 2023, 10:18:45 AM
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This may not be the right place for this, please move if I did something wrong.
I replaced the radiator in my newly acquired '64 1/2 because of overheating and it was obviously plugged with rust. After having it rodded to open it up and clean it up, I am wondering if it could be an original part. It seems to have a 1964 part number but I don't know what the rest of numbers mean. It was built the first week of June, 1964, here is a picture of the stamped numbers on it: Any help appreciated on whether I should keep it or even reinstall it for judging.
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That is a July 64 second week dated radiator (4GB). Late for your car unless it was actually built later than June. Check your sheet metal date codes to narrow it down. I have a Mid June 64 (scheduled) car that was built more towards Mid July based on sheetmetal dates. Looks like an original, but I am not up on repops if they stamp those. I say keep it if fits your dates.
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The Y indicates it was for a manual trans V8 also...
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Thanks, the sheet metal does line up with an early June build, and the car is a top-loader 4 speed, so I guess this was a replacement somewhere along the long road it tooK......
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If it has the auto trans nipples on the bottom tank you should look for another bottom tank.
While numbers are not considered for non-Thoroughbred judging the wrong tank will be considered.
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If it has the auto trans nipples on the bottom tank you should look for bottom tank.
While numbers are not considered for judging the wrong tank will be considered.
Sorry, typo on my original reply... the Y is manual trans, Z is auto.
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OK, thanks, it does not have the bottom nipples for the auto trans, so maybe I will reinstall it, even though it is far inferior to my new DeWitts one. I do wonder if these old style radiators ever really worked well when new at keeping the K-Code cool.
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They worked well when new. There are other factors that might play into running hot, like over-bored cylinders, ignition timing, wrong, t-stat, etc...
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Don't enter a "K" Mustang in a parade. It will overheat.
Jim
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They worked well when new. There are other factors that might play into running hot, like over-bored cylinders, ignition timing, wrong, t-stat, etc...
+++1
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Well, I have to drive it 70 miles each way to the MCA National in ABQ in June for Driven Concours judging. I would not like to have it overheating and puking on the show field, but may put it back on and try. I guess there are no deductions for overheating and overflowing before judging. Thanks!
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in that class you can use a trailer to get to the show.
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in that class you can use a trailer to get to the show.
Sure! Drop another $8k for a trailer, possibly another $50k for a good truck and there ya go!
I love spending other people's money!
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Sure! Drop another $8k for a trailer, possibly another $50k for a good truck and there ya go!
I love spending other people's money!
The car begot the trailer, the trailer begot the truck!! :o :o
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in that class you can use a trailer to get to the show.
I would rather not, I bought this car to drive, not trailer around like my rare Corvettes...... :D.
And I want to enter it in Driven Concours, not Trailered, I hate to be dishonest.
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And I want to enter it in Driven Concours, not Trailered, I hate to be dishonest.
That was the original intent of the class.
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Yes, and I plan to follow the intent. This class is such a good one for people who want to drive their cars frequently but keep them as original as possible. I do wish my NCRS group was as astute about providing classes to attract a wide variety of enthusiasts.
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MCA opened it up to allow the cars to be trailered, with the caveat that the cars are actually driven on at least an occasional basis. Mainly, it was to create more participation and entice owners to bring cars like big block Boss 9's and that sort of car that might not do very well on a multi-hour trip.