ConcoursMustang Forums
1st Generation 1964 1/2 - 1973 - Questions & general discussions that apply to a specific year => 1967 Mustang => Topic started by: Bossbill on July 23, 2022, 03:38:58 PM
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On the Shelby I finally got around to installing all of those fiddly things like ram seals and control valve rebuilding.
However, the control valve has an area that is either a machined relief or it got sawed away by some other steering part.
I have another valve which I'm proposing to use, but I can't wrap my head around the relief.
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If the driver side tie rod adjusting sleeve clamp is not oriented so that the bolt is on the front side of the tie rod with bolt vertical then it can scrape across the control valve gouging out metal. It is usually a side to side gouge .
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Without having an assembled version to look at I was curious. It makes sense now.
I'll try and rescue the one to the rear and put in some more casting divots.
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These valves have been rebuilt so many times I was having issues with correctness.
Here is what I think the various finishes were in 1967. I'll update as I find pics and get better data on fasteners.
* Steel tube with tapered stud inside: Bare steel, tumbled. Bluing around weld.
* Orange plastic seal between tube and body (somewhat visible)
* Stud seal Clamp: Bare steel. Closed style, top at stud.
* Stud Seal Clamp Screws: Straight slot; 0.5 long; round metal type screw; blunt nose; silver
* Clamp at tube threads (to drag link): Darkened bare steel
* Bolt to above: 5/15x24 Grade 5; RBW 3 radians - 304759-S2
* Nut to above: 5/16x24 Grade 5; cone lock - 34443-S7
* Tapered stud: Black oxide
* Bolts from tube to main body: P&O; M 3 radials.
* Main body: As cast, slightly darkened
* Cap: Raw cast aluminum with machined surface at end for date stamp
* Cap Screws: Straight slot, captive lock washer, black oxide
- Pic 1) Restored tube
- Pic 2) I've decided that I've seen enough "M" with 3 radians to accept that bolt.
- Pic 3) A view of the stud seal clamp bottom. This clamp is reproduced, however, this is an original. The blunt screw is also picture with its length.
The clamp is bare steel. Note too the half round cutaway around the zerk area and how tightly it fits around this area.
Pic 4) End cap and orange gasket
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Have to remind viewers that we are discussing 1967 details as some of the hardware finishes appear to be different depending on when the car/PS parts were made
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I've updated my post with additional data. Please cross check my findings.
This unit should get assembled soon if I can manage to get the plating system hooked up.
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Pictures (all are a link from my build thread).
(https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=16775.0;attach=83468;image)
(https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=16775.0;attach=83470;image)
(https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=16775.0;attach=83472;image)