ConcoursMustang Forums
Restoring - General discussions that span across many different groups of years and models => Interior & Trunk => Topic started by: HDAshmore on May 03, 2022, 10:09:52 PM
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Team,
Good evening.
Can anyone tell me what the 1970 console plastic type is. Need to plastic weld a repair and want to use the correct material.
Also, any recommendations on a good flocking kit?
polycarbonate, polyurethane, polyethylene, nylon, ABS etc???????
Thanks,
Dan in Kansas
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If you have access to the back side where it won't be seen, I've had very good results with just fiberglass.
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Dave,
thanks, I considered this as my plan B. I have a chunk missing under the console lid. I would like to try to splice in a piece of the correct material if possible and reinforce underneath. If I cannot source the right plastic to cut piece and welding material, then I will go fiberglass.
Thanks for the fast response and recommendation,
Dan in Kansas
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I wonder if it's the same as the 67/68 material?
I tested 2 products to see if they stick, but forget offhand what they were. I'll check tomorrow...
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I don't know what actual material was used in a 70 console, but I have some information about the process. Plastics used by Ford (and all industry in general) that were molded had a mold release sprayed into the molds prior to the plastic material injected. Sometime in 1967, a process was developed where the mold release was included in the parts' material. Sprayed in mold releases were no longer needed. That new process was used on plastics pieces by Ford from 1968 on, I don't know about 1967.
What this means to you is that a special epoxy is required to stick pieces together. Regular two part epoxies, and some single part epoxies may not or will not work because of the included mold release. The special epoxy is readily available. Sorry, I don't know any brand names. I just go to a local plastics store (TAP Plastics) and ask.
(For 1966 and earlier plastic pieces, almost any epoxy will work for repairs.)
Jim
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Jim,
Great information, thanks! Does this mean I cannot use a heat type welder to fuse whatever kind of plastic it turns out to be? Looking to use plastic welder to fuse a new piece in if it is a possibility. That's why I'm asking so I can order the correct type of plastic rods if it will work.
Thanks for the mold release information. I learned something new.
Dan in Kansas
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Also, any recommendations on a good flocking kit?
I used black flocking from a model railroad store, flat black spray paint and a lot of masking. The technique I used was to mask but leave the front end open to paint, then shake the flocking in, seal the end and shake well. You should have excess. I've been told that flat black brushed on paint works too.
I have a chunk missing under the console lid. I would like to try to splice in a piece of the correct material if possible and reinforce underneath. If I cannot source the right plastic to cut piece and welding material, then I will go fiberglass.
Consider a section from an unusable console to be the patch.
The special epoxy would be my first choice. The built in mold release "may" not work with "weldable" materials. It won't stick.
Jim
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You can try NPD for the flocking I gave this a try as Jim points out my attempt gave me a 5 out of 10 result.
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I fixed mine a 1969 console years ago, I use epoxy gray two components, then i add to borders some rubber or neoprene strips,
it last less then two years then removing the console it broke more and more, those console are really too easy to broke.
Vibrations, pressure from arms, a good way is to make the interior more solid with some thick plastic panels fixed with epoxy
or fiberglass, specially were the screws are, don't use those screws anyway cause the cause of the cracks is there.
maybe better some plastic screws and rubber washers.
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I fixed mine a 1969 console years ago, I use epoxy gray two components, then i add to borders some rubber or neoprene strips,
it last less then two years then removing the console it broke more and more, those console are really too easy to broke.
Vibrations, pressure from arms, a good way is to make the interior more solid with some thick plastic panels fixed with epoxy
or fiberglass, specially were the screws are, don't use those screws anyway cause the cause of the cracks is there.
maybe better some plastic screws and rubber washers.
Thanks for posting your experiences and fix for your damaged console, but think the leaving out or replacing the screws with something else won't fit our focus here ;)
Maybe just be careful and don't tighten down tightly
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A slightly related question........ The top piece of my console is a nice dark black (protected in a box for all these years) but the body is a lighter black, which is likely due to the effects of UV light all these years. The miss-match in color is noticeable and I am considering painting it to get a consistent look but I don't really want to do so. My other thought is to use fine grade wet-dry to remove the degraded surface from the console body but I don't want to wear down the grain. Polishing gets it close and I was wondering if anyone has used any other methods?
Brad
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A slightly related question........ The top piece of my console is a nice dark black (protected in a box for all these years) but the body is a lighter black, which is likely due to the effects of UV light all these years. The miss-match in color is noticeable and I am considering painting it to get a consistent look but I don't really want to do so. My other thought is to use fine grade wet-dry to remove the degraded surface from the console body but I don't want to wear down the grain. Polishing gets it close and I was wondering if anyone has used any other methods?
Brad
Any sanding will only touch the top of the grain, reduce the grain depth and over all look, negatively IMHO over all. Would choose a good spray black that is made for plastic for a better outcome
Keep the coat light and just enough to do the job
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Thanks Jeff and you convinced me that painting is the only way to go.
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There are some "treatments" that could help and improve the look such as Back to Black but if they didn't work as well as you would want the chemicals that the product put in on and possibly in the plastic might make it unpaintable now and possibly for a fair amount of time that follows. Just suggesting the safer path
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What is the correct color for a black console? And who makes the best rattle can?
Thanks Dan in Kansas
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What is the correct color for a black console? And who makes the best rattle can?
Depending on the year (67 and up has two different "flavors" of black), match what the interior is. When you do paint the console, paint the whole thing, don't try to touch up existing paint. Time is your enemy with respect to paint.
As to the "best" rattle can, go with what NPD or Virginia Classic carries. Stay consistent.
Jim
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One additional thought. Strip the old paint off first. I believe the recommended method is to use oven cleaner. Do a search on this forum for additional how to info.
Jim
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Another "thought". In conversations with Scott302 of NPD, he informed me that there is a shortage of cans of spray paints due to a lack of cans. That may have been resolved by now, I haven't looked or asked.
Jim