ConcoursMustang Forums
Restoring - General discussions that span across many different groups of years and models => Interior & Trunk => Topic started by: 68 S Code on March 01, 2011, 12:16:20 AM
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I have my rear interior 1/4 trims done for the vert except I need to install the metal snap receivers for the boot. Have a bunch of the snaps but only need 2 per side. Originals had the sort of rivet side nicely folded over. How do you replicate this? NPD has a tool but 100 to install 4 rivets? Must be another way.
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It has been a while since I did the quarter covers for our 67 GTA convertible as I remember the re-pop snaps were differant. I think I use a tap and cut threads on the in side of the original snap and used a short screw to reattach it to the quarter from the inside. Marty
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Thought of the same but without the tapping. I know NPD sells a tool but to dish out 100+ shipping to do 4 snaps sounds crazy. I'd rent one though if someone had it.
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The problem is when the old snaps are removed. Drilling out usually spins the snap stud in the hole and makes the hole bigger. There are a couple ways to do it... use a small washer and a small trim screw. Put the snap side on a piece of wood and tap the screw into the snap stud.
Originally, they would have been installed with a rivet squeezer with a special tip to get the rolled edge. NPD sells a tool that does the same thing on the 65/66 vent frame gaskets. Otherwise, you can buy the $200 aviation grade hand rivet squeezer, which would do the job.
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You can go to any cloth/sewing/hobby store (I got mine at Hobby Lobby) and get the correct little tool that folds the snap over. It looks like this
(http://pic80.picturetrail.com/VOL847/1785303/3437215/395463821.jpg)
You'll find it in the sewing section, with the snaps and buttons. I used this to fold the tube end of the snap. I used a small socket that just fit inside the snap to support it while I tapped and rolled the tube end of the snap. It worked well for the 6 snaps that I had to do. I also used a small rivet washer on each snap for support (as CT suggested).
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You can go to any cloth/sewing/hobby store (I got mine at Hobby Lobby) and get the correct little tool that folds the snap over. It looks like this
(http://pic80.picturetrail.com/VOL847/1785303/3437215/395463821.jpg)
You'll find it in the sewing section, with the snaps and buttons. I used this to fold the tube end of the snap. I used a small socket that just fit inside the snap to support it while I tapped and rolled the tube end of the snap. It worked well for the 6 snaps that I had to do. I also used a small rivet washer on each snap for support (as CT suggested).
Thats exactly what I had done on my convertible.....worked great, also use the washer as stated
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You sewing/home-ec. cissies! LOL! I thought I was the only guy who went to a fabric & sewing store with greasy hands.
The Aviation Brake rivet tool is about $13 + S&H.
(http://i950.photobucket.com/albums/ad350/bryancobb/rivet.jpg)
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++++1111 on the backup washer because of enlarged holes.
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Thank you all for the great suggestions. We have those hobby lobbys around but not too close by. Michaels art and craft less than 10 minutes awAy so will try them first. Ok who said visiting the craft store is for sissies? Bought the sheer black ribbon just yesterday that worked perfectly to replace the black cheese cloth material covering the opening in the door grille at the speaker. If they didn't have it Victoria Secret was next for some fishnet stockings. I figured I could get one of the sales girls to try them on to make sure the look was what I was looking for. Of course it would have to be tried on with the correct accessories.
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68 S ...
I was REEEEAAAALLLLY scared when I started reading "just yesterday I bought the sheer black.........."
So glad the next word was ribbon. LOL JK
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If they didn't have it Victoria Secret was next for some fishnet stockings. I figured I could get one of the sales girls to try them on to make sure the look was what I was looking for.
I keep trying that. And I keep getting slapped.
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They work on commission so just pick out the most expensive stuff. Tell them it's for your girlfriend because your wife refuses to wear it. After she's done modeling tell her that it looks so good on her that you'll buy it for her but only if she'll go lout to diner with you. If she agrees well good for you and if not then you don't have to buy it.
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Home Depot has a grommet kit with the setting driver for $5. Little man-lier than sewing shop
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Michaels had one similar to the pic provided but without the plastic donut so I tried a fabric store. They had multiple kits withies of accessories so I picked one up. Then ran to Depot for rivet washers. Could have saved a trip by going to Depot first. I look at the small pin driver and can't see how this is going to work. Before buying it I tried a center punch which seemed like it would have worked but just didn't fold over the edges nicely. I'll give it a try with the kit. I may be back for more instruction. Thanks for now.
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Well i wouldn't have thought this little tool was going to work but it did. By the time you put the stud through the fiberglass shell and upholstery not much left to peen down. By the way I didn't need the washers. Came out great. Actually the biggest pain were the staples for the window felts at the metal shell. One side worked like a charm while the other had all sorts of issues. All done now so moving onto the next project....Steering wheel detailing. Look for a thread on reinstalling an NOS horn ring.
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You will wish you had put the washers on if you install and remove your boot very many times.
Think what you are pulling on when you remove the snaps...
...that tiny rivet head which is bearing on ABS plastic.
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I've got two extra snaps by the left and right quarter windows and 4 along the top edge of the passenger side door. None on the driver's side door and none along the dash. Does this suggest a Tonneau cover of some sort? What would have supported the center?
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Bryon, I think shell is fiberglass not ABS. If I would have used washer rivet end would have been short. Well it's done now so I will have to see what happens. Before mounting I will cycle the boot a couple dozen times.
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They are abs or some other sort of plastic. That makes the a lot harder to repair than fiberglass. Marty
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I would have thought that ABS is vacume formed and smooth. Mine have a non smooth finish on the back side. Almost stringy like old time fiberglass from that era. Reminds me of a 68 shelby hood on the underside. By the way has anyone ever figured out what the numbers on the back side in red grease pencil stand for. I have a pair with #3 and a pair with #4 written on them.
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There were some fiberglass reproductions made at one time. I found a set in a car I worked on once. Most of the ones I thought were original were either black or cream color plastic. The black ones usually seem to be a little more flimsy.
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There were some fiberglass reproductions made at one time. I found a set in a car I worked on once. Most of the ones I thought were original were either black or cream color plastic. The black ones usually seem to be a little more flimsy.
Agreed Marty
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I have 2 sets, both identical and positive they are not reproductions. One set is original to car and second stripped
Out in mid eighties. Repops of these not available back then. Pulled off original upholstery which is much thinner than reproduction.
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You might be surprised what was being reproduced in the 80's. Seems like I remember an engineering number being molded into the backs of these.
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Caspian I remember when I started in this hobby in the eighties and the catalogs with the available reproduction pars. Nothing like what it is today. Glancing at what is available today I believe you can assemble an entire car less drivetrain from a Mustang superstore like NPD, dynacorn and others. I don't remember repop shells. Back then the junkyards were still stocking Mustangs as parts cars. Today every rusted out hulk is a future "restoration project". I did take a closer look at the extra shells I have and the stringy texture on the back must have been caused by the way the adhesive was applied. One of the
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Pretty obvious that the availability of parts is not the same as it was then. I was only pointing out that there were things being reproduced back then that most people did not realize. What about the reproduction 65-66 AM/FM radio that was made in the late 70's-early 80's? Pick up an old Mustang Monthly and look at the advertisements and you'll see what I mean. Also, my name is Charles, not caspian.
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Charles, I took a look at a extra shell that had A break in it and it was a clean smooth break. No fibers. So the term of fiberglass which I had used was incorrect. This hobby has come a long way in the last 30 years with parts availability and quality. I just took a look at some repop dash trim from the mid eighties. The original fastenerswont work because the plastic pegs are a slightly smaller diameter. The piece on the right of the glovebox is way too flat compared to the original. Come a long way.
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Pete, Yes, Your car had the Tonneau cover at one time. Those snaps are correct. You should also have two brackets coming off of the top Dashpad trim, One on each corner. California Mustang is the only place that I know of that still sells the Tonneau cover. The repro slightly differs from the original, but not much. Attaching points are the same I think. They are cool..!
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Tony,
The brackets, along with the Tonneau cover, are long gone. And I see no evidence (a hole or other such marking) at the dash to indicate there had ever been one. Do you, or anyone else, have an instruction sheet that shows how these were installed.
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Pete, I sent you an e-mail on this..
Tony K.