ConcoursMustang Forums
1st Generation 1964 1/2 - 1973 - Questions & general discussions that apply to a specific year => 1968 Mustang => Topic started by: bullitt68 on December 31, 2019, 04:28:47 AM
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I found more original rusty parts today. Just looking to confirm if these are correct for my car. They look correct and the guy I got them from said that they are correct. If they look legit I will media blast them and see what condition they are in under the rust. I Just don't want to waste anytime on something that is not correct as I already have a restored set of service replacements.
Thanks
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The idler arm is not correct.
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The powersteering idler arm is the weakest link in the steering system IMO. They are most typically replaced when worn out with aftermarket versions that have a different appearance. The Ford assemblyline version and or OEM (original equipment manufacturer) is very hard to find used and even harder to find NOS. You typically have to rebuild used ones. I always try to have some on the shelf. I seldom ever have NOS ones.
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The idler arm is not correct.
Thanks I knew that which is why I didn't mention it as the guy who sold me the other parts said it was not correct. The one that came on my car was not original either. How about the Tie Rods & Drag Link. Are they correct?
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I believe Jeff has an article about how to restore the tie rods.
I used his information as the basis for how I did mine.
Those tie rods look like mine. I think 68 is the same as 67 in as so far as the tied rod ends go.
To see mine, go here:
http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=16775.msg126444#msg126444
I cleaned, removed the rubber dust cap, covered the greasey bits with a large finger cot, media blasted with #30 glass ball, dremel with small brush on the caps, covered the cap with fine line tape and used gun blue gel with stainless steel wool on the main body.
For those who wonder about the gel, it contains phosphoric acid so you are doing a cold phosphate treatment.
New caps are from Scott Fuller.
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Thanks I knew that which is why I didn't mention it as the guy who sold me the other parts said it was not correct. The one that came on my car was not original either. How about the Tie Rods & Drag Link. Are they correct?
Looks like the tie rods, and adjusters may be originals. After they are clean you'll know more and have a better idea of there condition. Not allot of pictures of the center links but in general they were typically never replaced since not allot of surfaces that typically wear or get damaged. As Bill mentioned that in the Restoring Natural Finishes article I use the example of tie rod ends since they have a number of different parts and in turn finishes
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New caps are from Scott Fuller.
Even though the Fuller caps are more expensive they are the ones I would go with, the cheaper Carpenter caps ($5) will disappoint as they seem to be made of cheap Chinese rubber that will disintegrate post haste, even while just sitting in garage.
My experience....... Kurt.
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I believe Jeff has an article about how to restore the tie rods.
I used his information as the basis for how I did mine.
Those tie rods look like mine. I think 68 is the same as 67 in as so far as the tied rod ends go.
To see mine, go here:
http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=16775.msg126444#msg126444
I cleaned, removed the rubber dust cap, covered the greasey bits with a large finger cot, media blasted with #30 glass ball, dremel with small brush on the caps, covered the cap with fine line tape and used gun blue gel with stainless steel wool on the main body.
For those who wonder about the gel, it contains phosphoric acid so you are doing a cold phosphate treatment.
New caps are from Scott Fuller.
Thanks Bill I will check it out and get busy on the project and let you know how they turn out. They are pretty rusty, so hopefully I can save them
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Looks like the tie rods, and adjusters may be originals. After they are clean you'll know more and have a better idea of there condition. Not allot of pictures of the center links but in general they were typically never replaced since not allot of surfaces that typically wear or get damaged. As Bill mentioned that in the Restoring Natural Finishes article I use the example of tie rod ends since they have a number of different parts and in turn finishes
Thanks Bill I will blast them and get some better photos
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New caps are from Scott Fuller.
Even though the Fuller caps are more expensive they are the ones I would go with, the cheaper Carpenter caps ($5) will disappoint as they seem to be made of cheap Chinese rubber that will disintegrate post haste, even while just sitting in garage.
My experience....... Kurt.
Thanks Kurt Agreed. Now that I have correct Tie Rods I will be able to run the correct caps
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Looks like the tie rods, and adjusters may be originals. After they are clean you'll know more and have a better idea of there condition. Not allot of pictures of the center links but in general they were typically never replaced since not allot of surfaces that typically wear or get damaged. As Bill mentioned that in the Restoring Natural Finishes article I use the example of tie rod ends since they have a number of different parts and in turn finishes
Hi Jeff here is a better photo of the Drag Link. What do you think could it be correct?
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The drag link looks spot on to me, you should be all set there.
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The drag link looks spot on to me, you should be all set there.
Great thanks John. I am getting closer. I almost have all of my incorrect steering components replaced with correct ones.
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The drag link looks spot on to me, you should be all set there.
+1 Looks good another thing off the list :)
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+1 Looks good another thing off the list :)
Thanks Jeff. Slowly but surely I am chipping away at the list. Here are the tie rods after disassembly, cleaning & media blasting. I have a couple of questions.
Since the ball joint on the tie rods do not use grease fittings, how is grease applied or are they greaseless or pre greased ball joints.
Regarding finish, would it be better to use a less correct part that looks better than a correct part that does not looks as good.
The tie rods/drag links, leafs and a few other suspension parts I picked up recently seem to be correct but quite rusty. I don't want to waste any time on parts if they are not up to snuff visually.
I need to make sure that any original parts I use are safe and mechanically sound of course.
I still need to finish them to get them to look correct, but I wanted to see how they cleaned up first before I invest anymore time into the project.
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Thanks Jeff. Slowly but surely I am chipping away at the list. Here are the tie rods after disassembly, cleaning & media blasting. I have a couple of questions.
Since the ball joint on the tie rods do not use grease fittings, how is grease applied or are they greaseless or pre greased ball joints.
Guess the best way to refer to them is zertless factory greased. There are nylon cups inside so what I've done in the past is to push out the old grease by working in the new grease from one side sort of how you work grease into a set of bearings ( though you flush those easier) if you've done things like that in the past. Then add a little grease to the dust shield before you install it on the tie rod. Article shows at least one picture.
Regarding finish, would it be better to use a less correct part that looks better than a correct part that does not looks as good.
If your referring to judging one can cancel out the other. Can always go with zertless reproductions and even add the stamping on the machined cap - that is covered in another thread also.
http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=2293.msg11789#msg11789 (http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=2293.msg11789#msg11789)
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Guess the best way to refer to them is zertless factory greased. There are nylon cups inside so what I've done in the past is to push out the old grease by working in the new grease from one side sort of how you work grease into a set of bearings ( though you flush those easier) if you've done things like that in the past. Then add a little grease to the dust shield before you install it on the tie rod. Article shows at least one picture.
If your referring to judging one can cancel out the other. Can always go with zertless reproductions and even add the stamping on the machined cap - that is covered in another thread also.
http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=2293.msg11789#msg11789 (http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=2293.msg11789#msg11789)
Great thanks Jeff appreciate it. Looks like they have lots of decent looking products that I can use. Although I have been focusing primarily on original parts, given that some of the original parts I have acquired are in such rough shape I am looking for other options and this looks like it may be a good option. Good website and good selection of parts. I take it that anything indicated concours would be an ideal original part substitution
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...........Good website and good selection of parts. I take it that anything indicated concours would be an ideal original part substitution
No - would never make that assumption. They, like others, likely don't have the same level of expectation as most of us would and at times (like others) they make choices/exceptions when it comes to manufacturing between cost and exactly like original. They also (depending on what year and who is in charge) have made choices based on other demands and what the general customer wants but in the past have been willing to make allowances to provide special requests. I've worked on and off with that company for over 15 years.
Their products (tie rods and A arms come to mind) have been discussed in a number of threads and I've used them on restored cars with success as others have. If you have a particular part your looking at contact me and we can discuss the details and check on what they are currently doing. They are only 10 mins away :)
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No - would never make that assumption. They, like others, likely don't have the same level of expectation as most of us would and at times (like others) they make choices/exceptions when it comes to manufacturing between cost and exactly like original. They also (depending on what year and who is in charge) have made choices based on other demands and what the general customer wants but in the past have been willing to make allowances to provide special requests. I've worked on and off with that company for over 15 years.
Their products (tie rods and A arms come to mind) have been discussed in a number of threads and I've used them on restored cars with success as others have. If you have a particular part your looking at contact me and we can discuss the details and check on what they are currently doing. They are only 10 mins away :)
Ok great thanks Jeff I can PM you the list of parts I am considering