ConcoursMustang Forums
1st Generation 1964 1/2 - 1973 - Questions & general discussions that apply to a specific year => 1967 Mustang => Topic started by: Bossbill on January 16, 2019, 09:49:35 PM
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While I had the heater motor out I thought I'd take a few pics to show the part number and date for my SJ early March car.
[now I'll have to go back and do the wiper motor with a scale!]
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Look in the library section under "ConcoursMustang.com Official 67 Mustang Articles List" for "Heater Motor Feed Cable- Repairing - Part I and Part II". There's more there.
Jim
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I've seen that before and it's a really good write-up.
One of the users here asked about 67-68 markings and I thought the dancing (non-linear) letters on the part number was interesting.
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While I had the heater motor out I thought I'd take a few pics to show the part number and date for my SJ early March car.
[now I'll have to go back and do the wiper motor with a scale!]
Looks like the bolts were zinc, judging by your photos, and painted as part of the assembly.
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I've thought about how to detect if a part is zinc or cad plated. The answer might be in the full strength muratic acid bath I've been using prior to plating.
Unplated items fizz very little.
But even after media blasting the cad or zinc parts fizz pretty well.
Maybe that's a good test?
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I've thought about how to detect if a part is zinc or cad plated. The answer might be in the full strength muratic acid bath I've been using prior to plating.
Unplated items fizz very little.
But even after media blasting the cad parts fizz pretty well.
Maybe that's a good test?
I don't think so . Put zinc plated items in the same acid bath and see what happens . ;) They fizz substantially too.
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I've thought about how to detect if a part is zinc or cad plated. The answer might be in the full strength muratic acid bath I've been using prior to plating.
Unplated items fizz very little.
But even after media blasting the cad parts fizz pretty well.
Maybe that's a good test?
The way I have been removing zinc or cad plating is to first use the muriatic acid bath until the parts stop fizzing. Then I media blast them with glass bead to give them a good polish which really helps the quality of the plating, and then a quick dip in the acid again before re plating. I have found no difference between the cad and the zinc in the 20% solution I have been using. They both seem to react the same way and take the same amount of time to strip. Media blasting only will not remove all of the plating, so best to soak in the acid bath, otherwise the re plating will not turn out well in my experience. FYI prepping parts for Phosphate, I have found only require media blasting, but I have also been doing a quick muriatic dip before phostophating as well to make sure that I get a good coating. It seems to improve the process. Fore any of these processes they key is very clean and pure metal surfaces. As has been pointed out often, even a finger tip can leave oils on the part and affect the plating process in a negative way
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I don't think so . Put zinc plated items in the same acid bath and see what happens . ;) They fizz substantially too.
I meant put either the zinc or cad items in an acid bath (first sentence). I'll fix the last sentence!
I was only trying to figure out if the item was plated or just a raw bolt with no plating of any kind. Then again, I imagine Ford wanted any bolt or nut in an electrical part to be plated.
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While I had the heater motor out I thought I'd take a few pics to show the part number and date for my SJ early March car.
[now I'll have to go back and do the wiper motor with a scale!]
Worker did a great jump at stamping the part without smearing it as it traveled (uneven surface and with the shaft near by or contacting) over the area. Not sure I could reproduce that look as well
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Found a fuzzy pic (I think I moved) of the stamp I will never see again after the motor is installed in the heater case.
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Found a fuzzy pic (I think I moved) of the stamp I will never see again after the motor is installed in the heater case.
Looks good Bill. Did you install a new bushing or did you just clean it up
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I found a Dearborn version. I'll just put it right here.