ConcoursMustang Forums
1st Generation 1964 1/2 - 1973 - Questions & general discussions that apply to a specific year => 1966 Shelby => Topic started by: Hipo giddyup on December 20, 2018, 10:15:51 AM
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I have searched this topic on the site but not finding the answer. Does anyone know what "screw" was used to attach the tachometer to the dashpad on a 66' Shelby?? Not sure if it would be a panhead philips or a "bolt head" "kinda like what holds the fuse box to the body"? I used a pan head philips screw in the past and since I want to relocate the wiring for the tach to be more correct (currently just routed down the heater duct/grill area), might as well put in the correct fasteners.
Also, what is the length? Thank you!!
Bill
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It's the best copy I have. The source is unknown, but it does answer your question. I do remember that later mountings included a sleeve and longer screw.
Jim
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Used "66 tach"
http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=11174.msg66830#msg66830 (http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=11174.msg66830#msg66830)
Also - Early 66 Shelby - Unrestored Picture Thread
Picture I3
All but very early had the anti - crush tubes/sleeves
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Thanks guys. Would you happen to know if these screws are reproduced?? I am not using the spacers, didn’t realize they used them later on during production. My dash has no distortion here. Any idea what the length would be or diameter inside and out so I can improvise making these? Thanks!
Bill
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...Any idea what the length would be or diameter inside and out so I can improvise making these? ...
Someone else measured his tubes/spacers as 11/16" L, 1/2" OD, 1/16" wall
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Would you happen to know if these screws are reproduced?? I am not using the spacers, didn’t realize they used them later on during production.
Bill,
Are you installing spacers or not? If not, the drawing has the Ford part number.
Jim
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Thanks guys. Would you happen to know if these screws are reproduced??
Screws are just hardware store item. #8 pan head I think 1.5 long. Most stores have black screws of some variety but you can always strip clear zinc and darken
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Thanks again everyone.
Jim, I'm am torn in using spacers since my dash pad shows very very little distortion (thanks Jeff, in case i do decide to make spacers!!). However, its hard for me to make out the screw numbers in your diagram ie. 52735-523?? Would I look into this from AMK, Ford??
Thanks TLea, I might just go this route if obtaining correct screws are a burden, (buying bulk from AMK, or not available from FORD). You never know.
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I'm am torn in using spacers since my dash pad shows very very little distortion (thanks Jeff, in case i do decide to make spacers!!). However, its hard for me to make out the screw numbers in your diagram ie. 52735-523?? Would I look into this from AMK, Ford??
The best I can determine is the part number shown on the drawing is 52735-S13, 10-12X5/8 Pan Head, Phillips drive, chrome plated. The "tip" type usually requires a pre-drilled hole. They are the screws used WITHOUT spacers. With spacers, the same diameter, head type and drive type should be the considered. That leaves length, the pitch will be either 12 or 16 threads per inch, the current standards. The spacer will need to be at least 0.187 inch inside diameter, but -
- Someone else measured his tubes/spacers as 11/16" L, 1/2" OD, 1/16" wall
I question the "11/16" inch length on the basis that I do not know the thickness of the dash pad in the mounting area.
THAT"S NOT A CRITICISM, I DO NOT KNOW.
The 1/2 inch diameter seems to be appropriate (and reasonable), there needs to be enough mounting surface area to keep the tach from "wobbling" on the dash.
If I were to fabricate spacers, I would use a section of 1/4 inch ID steel pipe and cut two spacers to a length about 1/8 inch less than the thickness of the dash pad. You do want a slight depression.
For screw length, a minimum of 1 1/4 inch would be my first choice. I don't think that a 1.0 inch length is long enough.
Unfortunately, Ford did not use a standard tip 10-12X1 1/4 inch pan head (or 10-16X1 1/4 either). AMK does not list those either. That's leaves you right where you started.
Merry Christmas anyway.
Jim
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Thanks for your excellent explanation Jim. At least I have a good bit of info to go on. Have a wonderful Xmas too!
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Reference to SAAC Forum discussion:
https://www.saacforum.com/index.php?topic=1790.0
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Apparently, members of the Shelby forum have the same symptoms of an illness as some on this forum, measurephobia - the fear of measuring a screw diameter and pitch. That, coupled with partnumberphobia - the fear for using a part number, makes determining what is the correct, or even best, item to use in restoration of a Mustang.
Maybe Santa will bring a few of you a dial caliper and thread gauge. One can only hope.
Jim
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Thanks again for everyone's input. I was replacing my dash speaker and also had to take my tach off in order to clean it's glass lens. Had to take it apart to get the lens out but now looks crystal clear. I reran the wires under the bracket like was originally done and looks much better. I assume the wires are just fed down the predrilled hole made between the screws? So by tightening the bracket it is squeezing the wires? Not that it is cutting them off but will obviously leave an indent in the pad. Again, I assume this is correct?
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Thanks again for everyone's input. I was replacing my dash speaker and also had to take my tach off in order to clean it's glass lens. Had to take it apart to get the lens out but now looks crystal clear. I reran the wires under the bracket like was originally done and looks much better. I assume the wires are just fed down the predrilled hole made between the screws? So by tightening the bracket it is squeezing the wires? Not that it is cutting them off but will obviously leave an indent in the pad. Again, I assume this is correct?
The wire is run down the hole between screw holes. The bracket will squeeze down the wires as it is tightened.
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Thanks Bob, just wanted to make sure this is how it was done.