ConcoursMustang Forums
1st Generation 1964 1/2 - 1973 - Questions & general discussions that apply to a specific year => 1967 Mustang => Topic started by: bullitt68 on December 20, 2018, 05:04:59 AM
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I have checked all of my references for these 2 parts and I have had conflicting opinions of if they should be Gold Zinc/Cad or Silver Zinc
Thanks
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control valve cover is raw steel from factory & i had chris brown make the original ones since they rust pit bad because they never had any type of coating on them. The one in your photo is not the factory type but a later replacement.
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The turn signal body supports should be gold zinc.
Danny
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control valve cover is raw steel from factory & i had chris brown make the original ones since they rust pit bad because they never had any type of coating on them. The one in your photo is not the factory type but a later replacement.
Thanks I have recently acquired a correct one and the guy I got it from said it should be gold zinc. It is gold on the inside
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The turn signal body supports should be gold zinc.
Danny
Thanks Danny. I thought that might be the case
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U may have bought a nos ford ps part & the service replacements were gold (so they dont rust sitting around on a shelf & look bad for resale) but the original concours correct assembly line type was raw steel & had a round cutout at the bottom around the grease hole plug.
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U may have bought a nos ford ps part & the service replacements were gold (so they dont rust sitting around on a shelf & look bad for resale) but the original concours correct assembly line type was raw steel & had a round cutout at the bottom around the grease hole plug.
Here is a photo of the original unit I found and you can see bare steel finish outside and gold inside.
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correct type but still a ford service replacement & looks like somebody sandblasted the gold finish off the front side. If u want to be concours correct like what was done on the assembly line it needs to be raw steel & i been correcting judges & restorers for years about this correct finish. Restorers were taking the goldish plated part out of nos ford packages & installing on the car without taking the plating off. Problem is this isnt an easy fix once installed as you have to pull the whole p/s control valve off again to correct this to remove this part the tapered ball stud is torqued into draglink so you have to drop the whole p/s rack & alot of trouble & hascle. So this is why u want to get it correct the first time.
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correct type but still a ford service replacement & looks like somebody sandblasted the gold finish off the front side. If u want to be concours correct like what was done on the assembly line it needs to be raw steel & i been correcting judges & restorers for years about this correct finish. Restorers were taking the goldish plated part out of nos ford packages & installing on the car without taking the plating off. Problem is this isnt an easy fix once installed as you have to pull the whole p/s control valve off again to correct this to remove this part the tapered ball stud is torqued into draglink so you have to drop the whole p/s rack & alot of trouble & hascle. So this is why u want to get it correct the first time.
Great thanks. Raw steel it is
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This is getting very confusing.
Jeff posted a pic of a 65 survivor in this thread:
https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=15144.msg94511#msg94511
which shows a rounded-square hole on the bottom. Pic is first attachment.
My SJ car -- 35 years in hibernation -- had the original short lines, all the original long lines, strap and featured a similar rounded-square hole clamp with the pilot nosed screws. There was no finish on the clamp when dunked in acid (to remove any finishes that might have been present).
Naturally I can't claim the clamp has never been replaced.
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This is getting very confusing.
Jeff posted a pic of a 65 survivor in this thread:
https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=15144.msg94511#msg94511
which shows a rounded-square hole on the bottom. Pic is first attachment.
My SJ car -- 35 years in hibernation -- had the original short lines, all the original long lines, strap and featured a similar rounded-square hole clamp with the pilot nosed screws. There was no finish on the clamp when dunked in acid (to remove any finishes that might have been present).
Naturally I can't claim the clamp has never been replaced.
That of course is a 65/66 example and 65/66 may be different . I don't study 65/66 power steering components much so for sure but I do study 67-70 power steering details. For your 67 I would use the shield with the square side /rounded side opening for the grease zert side . I have seen too many control valves that had Sept /Oct dates on the spring cover caps to think it was the earlier style shield used in the 65/66 picture example.
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That of course is a 65/66 example and 65/66 may be different . I don't study 65/66 power steering components much so for sure but I do study 67-70 power steering details. For your 67 I would use the shield with the square side /rounded side opening for the grease zert side . I have seen too many control valves that had Sept /Oct dates on the spring cover caps to think it was the earlier style shield used in the 65/66 picture example.
Bob -- Is this a square side / rounded side opening?
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Bob -- Is this a square side / rounded side opening?
No that picture shows both sides squared off. It is typically like example in reply #6 in bare steel.
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Thanks Bob.
Didn't mean to post a 67 question in this 68 thread.
I did just buy an NOS version of the round hole style. I wanted new so I didn't have to deal with more rust pits. I'll remove the finish.
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Thanks Bob.
Didn't mean to post a 67 question in this 68 thread.
I did just buy an NOS version of the round hole style. I wanted new so I didn't have to deal with more rust pits. I'll remove the finish.
For those that didn't buy NOS and don't want to deal with rusty pitted try Brown Restorations .http://www.brownsautobodyservices.com/chassis/power-steering-ball-stud . Hunter Chris's son is running the show now. Chris RIP.